Hi, it’s Steve. Today, we’d like to show you how to change
the defrost port on your refrigerator. It’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a quarter inch
nut driver, a number two Phillips screw driver, maybe a small flat blade, and a pair of needle-nose
pliers. Let me show you how we do it. Now before we begin this repair, the first
thing we’ll need to do is to disconnect power to the refrigerator. So pull it forward and unplug it or locate
the electrical panel, turn off the appropriate breaker or remove the appropriate fuse. Now once we’ve done that, it’s best to remove
all the items on the upper shelf. Then, using our quarter-inch nut driver, we’re
going to remove that control housing and take it out of the refrigerator all together so
that we can change the socket. We’ll begin by removing this quarter-inch
hex head screw that secures the housing to the seal another fresh food compartment. Just allow that to lower down. Next, we’ll need to remove that wire harness
connector. Just put your flat-blade screwdriver with
the front there to remove that connector. Then pull away from these two mounting studs
at the back. You’ll note that there are two cutouts that
fit into that. Next we need to pull the capillary tube out
of the holder at the very back. Then we have the housing in our hands. At this point, we can take it out and do the
repair on a suitable work surface. Now with the control housing on a suitable
work surface, our next step will be to remove the water channels from the old defrost board. We’re using our needle-nose pliers. We’ll pull the two individual terminals off. Now to remove that forward terminal block
or off and on they’re quite snug, so take your flat-blade screwdriver. Just pry against the board to get it loose. Then pull it off. Now next, we’ll flip that housing over. We’ll remove the two Phillips screws on
the bottom. [background noise]
Steve: You can then lift the old defrost board off and set it aside. I’ll position the new one in the same location. It is shipped with some longer screws. On this model, we do not need to use those. We can reuse the originals. [background noise]
Steve: Begin by lining up the screw holes with the holes in the housing. Then reinstall the screws. [background noise]
Steve: Tighten those both securely. Now, depending on your model, you may need
to use the wire harness adapter to connect to that board. On this particular model there are individual
wires that will connect to the board, so we don’t need that adapter. We’ll start by putting the four-wire terminal
connector on first and make sure that it’s fully inserted onto the edge of that board. Then next, we’ll install the two individual
wires, and the card codes are marked on the board. [background noise]
Steve: Again, make sure that they’re on there nice and snug. Now we’re ready to put the assembly back in
the refrigerator. Now to reinstall the housing, the first thing
we’ll do is to position that capillary tube through these holes in the air inlet duct. Make sure it goes through all three. Next, we’re going to engage that wire harness
connector. Now make sure that locking tab in the front
engages. Then next, we’re going to put those two fork-shaped
ends over the mounting studs on the ceiling. Push that back so that it supports the back
end of it. Next, we’ll take our quarter-inch hex head
screw, insert that into the opening at the front, push it all the way through so that
we can see the top of it, and line it up with the hole in the ceiling, and then secure it
in place. Tighten that securely. Next, we’ll reload the refrigerator. Then we can plug it back in. We’re now ready to reconnect the power. Our repair is complete.