Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we’re
going to show you how to change the split ring on your washer and it’s a pretty easy
job. Let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we are going to need a variety
of tools. We’ll start with a stiff putty knife. A quarter inch and 5/16th nut driver, a flat
blade screwdriver, a 7/16th wrench or socket and latchet. A pair of needle nosed pliers
and a 1 and 11/16th spanner wrench and large hammer. Let’s get to it. Now before we begin
this repair, we are going to need to disconnect the power so pull the plug to the washer.
We’re also going to want to pull that washer far enough forward so we can remove the fill
hoses from the back so be sure to turn off the water supply before you remove the hoses. Once we’ve done that, we’ll take our putty
knife and we’re going to go in this gap between the front panel and the top panel and you’ll
locate a hidden spring in there. Simply depress it with the putty knife and pull the front
panel forward. And tilt the front panel forward and lift it off the two tabs on the bottom
that’s secured there. You can set that aside, next with our quarter inch nut driver, we’re
going to add two screws that secure the top panel to the cabinet. Next we’re going to
remove three screws that secure the console to the back panel. So using our quarter inch
nut driver, remove those three screws. Now with the screws removed we can tilt that console
forward and just slide it a bit to the right to disengage it from the main top and then
we’re going to lay that down. Next with our needle nosed pliers, we’re going
to pull the air dome tube off of the pressure switch and just gently pull that hose to disengage
it. Now we can pull that panel back out of the way. Just hang from the back of the machine.
Now I’m going to take the main top and just lift it up, couple of inches. Next we’re going
to raise the lid to its open position. Then we’re going to depress the tab on the back
of that lid switch towards the front and then we can push the lid switch up through the
opening and you can pull that switch towards the back of the washer. Release it and drop
it through the opening. Now close the lid, then we can remove the main top. Next we can
set that console on top of the washer again and then we’re going to remove the quarter
inch screws that secure that mounting bracket to the washer frame. We’ll pull that off.
Remove the back panel and just let it hang a little back in the washer. Ok now take the ending caps, slide those out
of the way, and we can take the control panel and the mounting bracket and just let those
completely out of the way. Next we’re going to remove the agitator from the tub. So we’re
just going to reach in and grab the skirt of the agitator, the very bottom of it and
give a sharp pull upwards. Just pop that off of the dry block, remove it and we’ll set
that aside. Our next with our 7/16th wrench or socket and ratchet we’re going to remove
the bolt on top of the agitator dry block and we can pull that dry block off of the
agitator shaft and we’ll set that aside. Now next we’ll take our 5/16th nut driver, we’re
going to remove the screws that secure the suspension straps to the tub cover. Remove
this screw and then lift the strap off of the tub cover tab, we’ll inspect those straps
as well to make sure that they’re in good shape and if they show any signs of wear or
cracking, we’ll replace those at the same time. Next we’re going to release the tabs
that hold the tub cover to the outer tub so just press down slightly on the tub cover
and then pull the tabs away from the tub to release them. Then we can lift the tub cover
free. Set it aside. Now with our 1 and 11/16th spanner wrench,
we’ll set that over the tub nut and because it is a left hand thread, we’re going to turn
it clockwise to loosen it. So with a bare hammer, give it a good sharp rap. Completely
remove the tub nut and set that aside. We can now lift straight up on the interbasket
and remove it from the washer. So next we’ll take a flat blade screwdriver and gently spread
that split ring just enough so it’ll slide up off of the shaft. We’ll discard our old
split ring. Install a new one. Ok, we’ll just slide that down over that shaft and if it’s
a little tight just carefully spread it with a flat blade screw driver and make sure it
bottoms out on that washer. Next we’ll put the inter spin basket back
into position. So we’ll let that sit right on top of that split ring. Just rock it back
and forth till it centers itself. We’ll take our new tub nut and remembering that it is
a left hand thread, we’re going to turn counter clockwise to tighten it. So just gently rock
that tub back and forth to tighten that knot. Now we’ll use our spanner wrench and we do
need to tighten that knot securely. Now installing the tub cover we want to first of all make
sure that the gasket is in good shape all around it. Then we’re going to locate the
bleach inlet in the left front corner. So tuck it down in, around the top of the cabinet,
making sure that we keep the tabs outside of the outer tub. Then we’ll use the large
forked locators to make sure that we have it properly in position. Now once we have
it lined up, just press the tabs on over the hooks on the outer tub. Making sure that you
keep these things straight. Keeping all of them engaged. Making sure all the tabs snap
firmly into position and it’s locked firmly on. Next we’ll install the tub dampening straps
and with our 5/16th nut driver we’ll replace the retaining screws. Now we’re ready to put
the control panel mounting bracket back into position. So we’ll just rotate that around.
Sit it roughly into position, we’ll lay the control panel across the front of the tub.
We’ll need to install the end caps, make sure the hooks fit into the rectangular opens of
the cabinet. So we’ll put one screw on either side just to hold that in position. Next we’ll
rotate the back panel up and slide that in the three tabs at the back. Then we’ll put
the two screws into secure that. Make sure that that back panel lines up with the end
caps before we tighten the screws. We can now tilt the control panel back up
into position and we’ll leave it there until we put the main top on and when we put the
main top on we want to make sure we engage the slotted holes at the back of the main
top. With the two hooks in the top frame. Now next we’re going to raise the lid. Just
tilt up in front of that top panel enough that we can position the lid switch up through
the opening in the main top. Keeping the wire harness towards the front, we’ll hook it in
and press down on the back of it till it snaps into place and we’ll reach in between the
top in the frame. We’ll snap the wire harness retainer into the frame. Then we can lower
that main top into position. We can close the lid. Uh next we’re going to slide the
air dome tube along the left hand side of the cabinet up through the opening in the
frame, making sure we clear the tub dampening straps. We’re going to lay that console down
flat. Pull the air dome tube clear. Fully inserted onto the pressure switch. Now we’ll line up the two tabs on the bottom
of the control panel with the slotted openings in the main top. We’ll slide that to the left.
When it’s in position, then we can replace the three quarter inch hex head screws across
the back. Make sure that the end caps fit around that back panel first. Uh next we’ll
replace the two quarter inch hex head screws that secure the main top to the cabinet. Next
we will replace the front panel and we’ll make sure that we line up those two slider
rings on the bottom with the tabs on the base frame and then as we tilt that panel forward
into position, make sure that the little locating pins line up with the openings in the front
panel and just snap it into place. Now we can replace the dry block for the agitator.
It is splined on the inside. To fit the agitator shaft, just drop it down into position. We’ll
take our 7/16th bolt and then with a ratchet or wrench, we’ll tighten that securely. We’ll have to hold the tub in position while
we do that. Next we’ll take our agitator and we’ll put it back in place and you will note
that there are some plastic tabs that hold that to the dry block. There are also four
spline guides that line up with the exterior of that dry block and those guys also correspond
with the fins on the bottom of the agitator to help you line up easier. So set it over
the dry block. Slide it down into place and give it a sharp push to lock it into position.
We’re now ready to reconnect our fill hoses and reconnect the power and repair is complete.
Told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.