Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we’re going to be replacing the complete
key set on our 2007 Suzuki GSX-R100. We need to go ahead and replace the lock set
all the way up at the triple tree, and we need to replace the one on the fuel tank and
then finish it off by replacing the lock on the seat. So, if you’re ready, let me go grab a couple
of tools and I’ll show you how to get it done. Alright, this is going to be a skill level
two, but just barely so don’t be afraid of it. Now as far as the tools that you’re going
to need, you’re going to need a couple of different ratchets, 3/8ths and 1/4 inch, several
different extensions, and as far as your sockets for those you’re just going to need this huge
36 one and then a 10mm. Other than that on the Allen side you’re going
to want a 4, 5, and 6 standard. And you’re also going to need a 6 90 degree. Alright the other special tool that you’re
going to need is a 40mm Torx but it needs to be a security type one. Just a set of side cutters, a pair of needlenose
pliers, several screwdrivers, and you also want to make sure you’ve got this extra long
Phillips one. A magnet, and then a decent torque wrench. Beyond that if you would reference our exploded
diagrams on partzilla.com that’ll give you a real clear picture of where everything is. And that’s also where you can get your parts
ordered. Now for this particular job I’m actually using
an entire lock set kit, so it’s under one part number and that’ll include all of the
pieces you need to get it done. So, once you have your tools and your parts
together, we can go over there and get started. Let’s start by removing the steering head
stem nut. It’s actually a 36mm. Next let’s loosen up the clamps on the top
of the fork tubes. And it’s a 6mm Allen. Now Suzuki of course wants you to remove the
front wheel and the forks and all of that. So we’re going to try and not do that. I’m going to go ahead and these clamp Allen
bolts all the way out, and what we’re going to try to do it just put a couple of screwdrivers
in here and just kind of pry it open and try to lift this whole section off. Alright, before we release that, I’m going
to go ahead and put a jack under the machine just to relieve any tension on the forks because
I have a feeling they’re going to try and move in those lower clamps. And when you’re lifting it from the bottom
like this, you want to put a piece of wood so you’re not lifting directly on the exhaust
itself. Now, let’s go ahead and get that top plate
off. Somebody has been doing some creative wiring,
which we are definitely going to be removing. I don’t even know where that goes or what
it does but it’s not staying on this machine. So let me get that cut out of the way and
then we’ll get the switch unplugged. Pull this front tank guard and see if we can
trace out where that is plugged in. Alright to get where that’s plugged in, we’re
going to go ahead and need to remove the fuel tank and the actual airbox because that plug
is just– I can see it, but I can’t get my hands on it so let’s get this tank out of
the way. Before I do that, let’s go ahead and disconnect
the battery because I don’t want anything electrical going on when I’m about to open
up the fuel system. Alright, now we can just push in those two
plastic tabs on the fuel line and they should pull towards you. There we go. Then, we want to disconnect the electrical
plug going up to it. Just push down on that plastic tab as it’s
going in. There. We’ve got a couple of vent lines that need
to come off all the way at the back. Typically to get those to break loose I usually
just squeeze them a little bit, twist, and that’ll break them loose to where they can
get pulled off. Now at the back of the tank is just a five
mm Allen. Going to run all the way through. Once we pull it the tank’s going to be free
so have your hand on it so it doesn’t fall off the machine. Hopefully, yours isn’t full of fuel because
a full tank adds probably 40 pounds to it. Let’s go ahead and set it down for a second
and get that pin out. Now, we should be able to lift it off. We should, but we still have some creative
wiring we need to cut loose. One big fire hazard. That’s what I’m looking at. Good grief. Just say no. Alright, let’s start getting our airbox off. Alright what we need to do next is take out
this 10mm up front, loosen up the clamps. You don’t want to take it all the way out,
just loosen it up and that should allow up to life the box off far enough without having
to disconnect all these hoses. With that out of the way, we can get to this
plug and unplug our ignition switch. Now just to be on the safe side, with this
pulled back I want to go ahead and cover up the intakes on the throttle bodies just because
I don’t want to drop anything down in there. Out comes our assembly. First thing I want to do is get off these
offensive looking toggle switches. I’m not opposed to putting lighting kits and
little accessories on bikes, don’t get me wrong. But what I am opposed to is doing it wrong. This is not the way to do it guys. Now, let’s get this pulled off. Now to do this you’re going to have to have
what they call a– it’s a Torx bit but it’s a security edition, where they actually have
a hole drilled in the bottom of it. So, without that you’re not going to be able
to do this. I’m pretty sure when they put them together,
they used red Loctite, and that’s what we’ll put it back together with. Yep. Red Loctite. Alright, that’s off. Let’s get the new one on. Try not to lose these this time. Alright with that done, let’s see if we can
get that one swapped out on the fuel tank. Alright, now comes the fun part. I’m going to start off by removing the fuel
pump and go ahead and get all the fuel out of this and then we’ll go from there. Be very careful doing this. Make sure that nobody is smoking around or
near you. Now what we’re after are these two screws
right here on either side. Now to get them as close as I can to the back,
I’m going to rotate this 90 degrees. Alright so we’ve got it turned and this is
about the angle that you’re going to be coming in at, right there. So that right there should be enough to grab
that Phillips and then remove it. Once we’ve done one, we’ll rotate it around
and do the same thing for the other side, and that latch will drop off. Alright, looks like it’s grabbing it. There’s one. Now just rotate it around to see if we can
get that other one. Ready for it? There she is. Everything came out, all the different pieces. She’s out of there. Alright, with that done, let’s go ahead and
get our fuel pump back in there, spin it over, and get it put back together. Now she’s ready to go back together. Alright, let’s go ahead and get this ignition
switch on there. Route this back up around the frame and plug
it back in. Alright, before I close this up, if you haven’t
changed your spark plugs in a while, now would be a good time to do it because you have to
go all the way down here just to get those swapped out. So, take advantage of having the machine open
like this. Now, we can go ahead and start putting the
airbox back together. Alright, these intake boots can be a little
tough to get them snugged back down. So what I typically do is just spray them
down with some contact cleaner and granted it’s going to evaporate really quick so you
have to move fairly fast to get this back on there. Alright, don’t forget to plug in your sensor. otherwise you’re going to get a FI light code. We’ll go ahead and finish putting the airbox
together and tighten these clamps down, and then we’ll start putting that head bolt back
on. And this one is going to be torqued to 65
foot-pounds. Now we can put our Allens back in, clamp back
down on those fork legs. Alright next up we’re going to install the
fuel tank. Make sure this little spacer is in there. We’re going to lay it up there flat first–
get our pivot pin in, and then we’ll go in and connect up the fuel lines, the vents,
and the wiring for the fuel pump. And now we can lower it back down. And we can get on our tank shroud. It’s just held in by one bolt up front, these
two side pieces that go in here, and then on the inside of the tank you have a couple
of screws. Alright, so we’ve got our ignition switch
done, we’ve got our fuel tank done. Now there’s one more. There’s actually a seat latch lock that’s
up under this fairing and it’s just got a little sliding clip that goes in and then
disconnects from the cable that’s routed up to the seat latch. Let’s get part of this tail section pulled
back. And yes, I’m aware of just how beat up all
this plastic is. But we’ll be replacing that in a separate
video. alright let’s get our cable out first. Pull straight up and then swing it around
and then lift it out. Now, remove that clip that just slides off. Lift the bracket over it, and drop it out
the bottom. Have our new lock. Slide that clip back on, reattach our cable. Swing it around. And drop back in its holder. Well alright guys, that pretty much wraps
this one up. All that’s left now is to reinstall the battery
and pop the seat back in. Well listen, if you need any of the parts
that we used, why don’t you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care
of. If you have ny questions or comments, just
leave them in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them. Until next time, we just want to say thanks
for watching.