hello I’m Patrick Childress today it’s
replace the head stay inside of the profile roller furling. but can you hire
a boat worker that says that they have 20 years experience and blindly allow
him to do the work on your boat and expect everything to come out just right
the second half of this video when we start to put this project back together
you’ll see what certainly could have gone wrong if I as a boat owner wasn’t
here to keep an eye on the project with this project is about replacing the head
stay inside of this Pro furl roller furling that head stay doesn’t show any
signs of deterioration but it’s ten years old
it’s just a time expiration stamp item at a certain point in life
you just take it out and replace it. Heading off to the east coast of Africa
where it can be very windy and stormy we don’t want any problems no breakage is
welcome out in the middle of a storm another thing is if you look up here on
the sail you’ll see the horizontal dark spots at each of the extrusion joins.
that is because I made a terrible mistake and did not keep proper tension
on my back stay that allowed these foils to work against themselves and
deteriorate and loosen up so the first part of this project to correct this
problem. fix the replace the head stay and rebuild these foils. I have some new
foils I want to put in and with some new joins. the Idea is to loosen up the turnbuckle
on the back stay and then we’ll bring the spinnaker halyard and topping lift
halyard forward and tighten it down to the windlass and that will be our
temporary head stay the next step of the project will be to
take out this titanium bolt and this titanium bolt inside of this aluminum
housing which goes through to the stainless steel plates on the inside
that is the hard part we’ll get to that right now. Somehow I lost the original video on how
I disassembled this housing and got these screws out of the aluminum housing
which go through to the stainless steel plates so I reset everything up here
just finger tight to run through the process again originally I was able to
move these plates by tapping. don’t use my bad example and tap directly on the
metal plate you should use a piece of wood to tap them over and back there’s
only so much distance that they will move because of a restriction inside of
the housing but if you can get them moving a little bit that helps to free
the nut on the backside of this plate from the titanium screw. it makes a big
difference on disassembly so with this one on the far side I was able to then
take a chisel and tap around the outside edge because just putting a wrench
inside was not moving it and I didn’t want to strip out the hex head inside of
the screw. but tapping it I was able to finally get it to move about a 64th of
an inch in relation to the aluminum drum once I got that moving then I was able
to put the hex head wrench in and start turning back and forth a little bit and
got it so it turned out that one was easy to disassemble the one on this side
for some reason was far more difficult so even though I had this plate moving
back and forth it was still well frozen in place and eventually I did strip out
the hex head fitting inside of the bolt so now I was stuck, so I took a dremel
and I was able to cut a little slot in the head of the bolt and then insert a
large screwdriver and even with that putting a wrench on the screwdriver I
could not get this nut to turn but since I had the slot now I was able to take
the chisel again and start tapping actually more than just tapping I was
beating on it on two different sides and I finally got that to move about a 64th
of an inch just barely but I could see that it did move that made a big
but even with that movement I couldn’t turn it with the screwdriver so the only
thing left to do was to drill a hole to use an ‘easy out’ and since this is a
titanium bolt you have to use cobalt drill bits. the regular high-speed bits
will do it but you’re gonna burn through a lot of them so I drilled a small hole
first and worked my way up in size until eventually I had a very large hole
inside the bolt to put an easy-out but I also drilled the head much larger
and that would tend to help free up the bolt from the aluminum housing put the
easy-out in tap it down and start to turn but it was so tight it just would
not budge so I took a cheater bar and started turning and that finally
loosened it up but the last thing you ever want to do is risk breaking an
easy-out inside of a bolt now you have ruined your whole week not just your day
there are ways of getting easy outs out but that takes a special tool that has a
little prongs that go down inside of these flutes and good luck trying to
find that special tool at the local hardware store but eventually I was able
to get this loosened up and turn it out by hand and get that nut out one thing
with using these Crescent wrenches think of them as a pipe wrench so you don’t
want to if you’re turning counterclockwise you don’t want to set
the wrench this way they’ll tend to grab better if you set it this way my old
boss at the Henderson mine up in Colorado in the mountains of Colorado
showed that to me and that’s why I’ve been doing it ever since we finally got this out I can clean the
corrosion up and everything is ready to go back together so always keep a spare
bolts on hand these bolts are no problem they just hold the cage in place and I
take those out once a year and see how easy it is to turn and clean them up
and put them back in using lanacote or TefGel which is an anti seize
product but from now on one once a year I’m going to be taking these things
apart and making sure that they don’t ever get frozen up again and I’ll be
treating these bolts and the surfaces with Lanacotee or TefGel. Now the
one thing I don’t trust on this whole lifts me up the mast system is just this
one turning block but the shackle right here into this aluminum collar so I have
another shackle and some line tied to it just in case something gives away here
we’ll have a backup so the fall won’t be but a couple inches. okay ready? untie it and you can start
walking today is the big day we get to put the
head stay back up which goes inside of the profurl roller furling and this
morning in a few minutes well have BEEP showing up we’re at the very French
island of Réunion out in the middle of the Indian Ocean
and to help things help BEEP, Im gonna be his assistant today and we have all the
tools set up here a lot of tools another camera
I want to photograph this whole process I have the new headstay all laid out
it’s already cut to length I’ve done just as much work as possible to make
this a very fast process we have a carpet here and another little carpet
here that we can work on top of so all of our little set screws and things
don’t disappear in the cracks of the dock and while I wait for how BEEP to show up
he should be here any minute I’m going to lay out some of these foils and get
everything just as setup as possible I’ve got my inverter so I can change
this to 240 volt to 110 for my electric drill in case we need that and I have
the bosun’s chair set up here ready to go I have a line a tail that I can tie
to some tools I think what will if I drop anything if I need other supplies
when I’m up at the top of the mast and I go to raise the new headstay with the
foil I’ll put it on a spinnaker halyard and just hoist it up that way and make
it a lot easier I don’t have to pull it up by hand and we’ve got a helper here
our good friend Keith on the boat Atalanta we met him back in the
Caribbean long ago ten ten years ago or 11 yeah Roatan Honduras
all right we’re together again halfway around the world. Have been for several
months now well we had a bit of a snag when the
rigger and his helper showed up this morning they did not want their picture
taken working on this dock So we snuck him in this
morning at 9am this morning, and we got started to replace the headstay, and it took him, his helper and
myself three and a half hours so that is what ten and a half hours man-hours to
do this whole job so went quick and easy there’s always a little snag along the
way and I’m forever grateful for their help but let me show you a couple of things
that came up during the process which you know you really need to know what’s
happening on your own sailboat when you hire these people you just can’t turn it over
to professionals and expect it to get done perfectly and these guys that work
in marinas they don’t cross oceans all the time like today he told me yeah but
he did this boat that’s down at the end of the dock 20 years ago and it’s still
fine yeah the boat sits here at the dock it doesn’t ever go out of here unless
it’s a pleasant day so it doesn’t get the heavy use like all of our ocean
crossing boats do this one been thousands and thousands of miles our
friends on Atalanta over here are sailing around the world so these are the hard
used boats and they know what works and what doesn’t and I cannot tell sometimes
a professional that’s 20 years experienced that I might have a little
better way of doing things so let me show you a couple of things that came up
today now when we had the back state to loose what happened what these foils
were able to work again work against each other and twist and turn but when
we’re putting this back together I had four brand new joins that go inside and
that’s what I wanted to use first I had a couple other good ones used ones that
we could use but I looked down this side a couple empty screw holes and I saw
nothing in there and something was wrong so I had them take it apart and it
turned out who are using a very old sloppy worn-out join where these holes
are very elongated so these set screws go through but it’s still not going to
really hold anything so I wasn’t really pleased with that I had them use another
used one that has good holes in it that aren’t elongated and this little pin on
the set screw goes through the extrusion and sets into that little hole to help
hold everything together and keep it from moving around so we took care of
that problem also of course when you do put all of these joins together you screw these down inside and even
though this is a red bottle of Loctite this label part is green and so this is
a green very tough Loctite like permanent once it goes in you don’t want
to have to try to get it done a little bit of heat from like a propane torch
will loosen it up though on some of these older joins I had put a third hole
for a third set screw and that really helps to hold things together and of
course you do have to drill another little hole inside here or this foot of
the set screw to go into just like the other two here so anyway we got rid of
these terrible old ones I threw one of the water just to make sure it wouldn’t
be used again I saved this one just so I could show you on the video and we’re
good to go we have good joins all the way up now the next disappointing thing
these guys were gonna do was to put the new Norseman terminal together dry that
is this cone goes inside these wires they screwed on terminal goes on the
bottom and it all goes together they were not going to use any kind of
sealant inside of the terminal so water sea water can get down inside the water
evaporates the salt stays behind and everything prematurely deteriorates and
breaks so I was able to jump into their work and grab my butyl sealant you can
use butyl tape but butyl tape is very thick very difficult to work with in
these tight areas you could heat it and possibly get by with that but but I take
my butyl in a caulking gun it has to be american-made butyl this came from Ace
Hardware don’t ever use Chinese or any kind or Southeast Asian made
butyl it is not the same stuff, this is just thinner butyl that you find in the tape
and much more pliable but it’s like Mickey Mouse it’s like like working with
liquid cobwebs it gets all over your fingers all over everything so you have
to wear or you should wear some nitrile
gloves the blue gloves and that makes cleanup a lot easier cleanup is with a
rag and mineral spirits so I took the butyl after they disassembled everything
again I pumped it all full all the way around the wires all the way around the
ball where the the wedge was and then reassembled everything again so that as
it all came together butyl sealant was coming out of the top
of the terminal and that’s what you need if you don’t have any coming off at the
top you might as well not do it at all you need to make sure that when water
runs down the wire it does not get down inside this stuff will last through the
heat of summer the cold of winter it expands it contracts it always sticks it
just doesn’t let go and I don’t know of anything better than using butyl rubber
for this application now the other thing they surprised me with was they had put
these screws this one and the one on the other side that goes through the
aluminum housing and to the stainless steel backing plate or chain plate in
dry and they were just gonna leave it that way I mean they know full well that
these screws will become frozen in place because of electrolysis so I had to have
them take it back out this screw and the one on the backside I got out my Lanacote
Lanacote is lanolin. it’s an extract from sheep’s wool and
it’s made in New Zealand and it’s very sticky the feels and looks like grease
but it isnt grease it’s like an anti grease if you ever use it on your bow
roller forget it your bow roller won’t turn and your chain will just skip right
over that plastic roller so it’s a very good anti seize but so I had them take
the screws out I coated all the insides and the threads of the screws with Lanacote, put it all back together and we’re good to go I can feel this now it’s a
little sticky and that’s fine maybe in another year and a half
two years I’ll take this out and make sure that it’s freed up and reapply the
Lanacote, This headstay hardly wobbles unlike before so I’m gonna take you to
the back and Rebecca’s going to show us how she determined the pressure that is
on the backstay. we just finished setting up the headstay the rigger
helped us do that he tensioned the backstay turnbuckle and he cited up the
mast to make sure it’s straight and he told us to sail a thousand miles
and then tighten up one or one and a half turns. Wow! That’s a lot! okay on the turnbuckle but we’re gonna
check the tension with this tensionometer just to see the tension on it. How do
you do that Rebecca? There is a guage here to determine if you have 1/4, 9/32, 5/16 or 3/8 which is 10mm or 3/8, so we use this scale right here… And that says 50, so really it’s at 52 which down here on this scale is tighter than its supposed to
be. okay then on this scale down here what is it supposed to be yet it’s
supposed to be anywhere in this range okay but we have three two so it’s
actually tighter then Loos recommends it to be so we’ll see how we like it but
I’m not sure we’ll make it any tighter maybe we’ll make it a little looser.
So the rigger over tensioned the backstay by some, so what I’m gonna do is
loosen up the turnbuckle by one full turn and we’ll check it again when we
get to Madagascar that’ll give the head state plenty of time to stretch out and
we’ll keep a close eye on it and make sure that we have the proper tension on
it by using the Loos tension gauge. We have the new headstay, the Profurl is all
back together again. Rebecca and I have been very impressed with this Profurl roller furling system. Despite my negligence and not having adequate
backstay tension it kept on working it has gone through
countless furling cycles in all kinds of weather pleasant and very extreme and so
I think we’re good to go we’re going to be crossing from this island of réunion
to the stormy coast of Madagascar so I hope this video is good for you if it
was please give it a thumbs up down below and a SUBSCRIBE and we’ll see you
soon thanks a lot for watching!