Hey everybody! If the plug-in outlet on your
stove has become loose, appears burnt, or works intermittently, then it might be time
for a replacement. Quite often, these things wear out from repeated use, so let me show
you step by step how I replaced mine. Once we get going, I’ll be moving quickly but
I’ll try to include plenty of detail. If you’re here because your outlet shut off
completely, it is possible that either the protective fuse has blown or needs to be replaced,
or the circuit breaker (if so equipped) is tripped and simply needs to be reset! If all
is good, then we’ll continue. Now surprisingly to me, NOT ONE building supply
store that I found, big or small, could provide me with this outlet! And my appliance repair
store said it had to be ordered! And even trying to find this online was a bit tricky.
BUT, using the following search, I had luck. On the Google search page I searched, “panel
mounting ac power socket outlet 125v 15a”. As you can see, plenty of results, but interestingly,
none that are of the colour of our original white outlet. I ordered another 3 pronged
version and received it in the mail. In this video, I’ll show the replacement
plug, some electrical tape, a screw driver, side cutters, small pliers, a marker, crimpers,
and a multimeter that measures AC volts. My screw driver is a #2 Robertson square drive
for the screws on the back of my stove, but many stoves instead use the #2 Phillips. I
also have replacement spade connectors to connect my new outlet to the old wires. I’ll
use the blue ones here that are rated 14 gage. So for my electric stove, the first step is
to carefully pull it away from the wall. Then carefully disconnect the large power supply
plug from the wall. If the stove cannot be unplugged because it’s hard wired to the
home, then the main breaker for the stove at the main power panel MUST be switched off
instead. Next, to gain access to what we want to replace, we’ll need to remove the screws
from the steel covers on the back of the stove. Each stove including yours will be slightly
different. For example, on my dad’s stove, only the shield needed to be removed, but
for this one, the screws need to be removed, and the entire top assembly needs to be tilted
and laid down, like this. By the way, use a towel to protect the front controls from
scratches if you do this. Now you can see the wires. There’s a green wire, a white
wire, and a black supply wire, which comes directly from its dedicated protective fuse
holder that has the same 15 ampere fuse I showed you earlier. This configuration is
the standardized configuration for North America. When looking at an outlet like this, this
small hole is protective ground. The largest flat blade is neutral, and the smaller flat
blade is 125 volt supply power. These must NEVER be connected any other way!
To remove this outlet I’m disconnecting the neutral, the supply wire from the fuse
holder, and then with a screw driver I’ll undo the screw holding the eyelet for the
ground wire. Now the new and old outlets are held in to the stove panel with a simple method,
which is using a “spreading tang” on each side. To remove the outlet, I just need to
squeeze both tangs “in” simultaneously, while pulling evenly on the socket in an outward
direction like this. Next I’ll look to make sure there is no damage to the wires. After,
I’ll proceed to cut all three wires off at the old connector. Then I’ll mark off
a line ¼ inch from the end of each wire where I want to strip the insulation off the wires.
Always be careful not to cut the copper strands when stripping, as this will weaken the connection
and cause a heat build-up when it’s under a heavy electrical load. Then, I’ll firmly
crimp the wires onto the spade connectors. . Now, before sliding the female spade connectors
on to the new socket terminals, I always like to give each connector a slight squeeze on
both sides, like this with a set of pliers to ensure the tightest fit possible on each
socket terminal. And as protection, give a few turns of electrical tape to each of the
terminals. Next, the wires must be slid all the way, firmly back onto the new connector.
That’s it! Now slide the new connector into the old hole and it should lock in place,
and then continue to reverse the order of operations to put this thing back together!
At this point I like to verify one last time that the connections are proper, so I will
measure looking for approximately 120 volts from the smaller flat blade to ground, and
also 120 volts from the same smaller flat blade to the larger flat blade. So there you go, if any part of this video
helped you please share it, and remember to check out my channel!
As always thanks for watching!