Hello my friends, the next typical problem of the 944 is waiting for us i.e. a broken DME relay A broken DME relay you notice quite easy, the Porsche isn’t running anymore The relay is a double relay with two stages for the ignition and the fuel pump The relay is activated by a positive signal on 86 85 and 85b are connected to ground The relay connects then 30 to 87 and 87b I built a test stand, a 12 V supply, ohmmeter. We’ll check the relay stages now I connect 85 and 85b to ground When I put 12 V on 86 the relay should click You hear, the activation of the first stage is working 85 and 85b are still connected to ground, 86 will be on plus I’ll measure now the contacts of the first stage 30 is connected to one probe of the ohmmeter and 87 on the other probe Let’s check, you look at the display of the ohmmeter and we find 0.1 Ohm, i.e. the resistance of the probes For measuring the second stage, we need 12 V on 30, because it activates the second stage over the first stage 86 and 30 will be on plus, 85 and 85b on ground and we have to measure on 87b 12 volts You heard the click, but the second stage wasn’t working A second trail, nothing happens And here we have our problem, the second stage isn’t working Let’s have a look inside Fortunately it is possible to open the relay, the cover is just clipped Push small screwdrivers left and right of the hook One side is free And it is out You see the construction, here is the first relay The other relay, you see here, looking from the side This is the first switch contact The second switch contact is here in the rear Let’s see, if both relays are working mechanically Same set-up as before, 85 and 85b are on ground We check at 87 if the 12V which I contact to 30 and to 86 arrive When I contact the relay, you see the right relay is working But the left relay is only working when I press on the board at the rear side Thus there is a bad soldering point, we’ll resolder it and the relay will be fine again You see the fine black line, where the relay is broken Again you see the signature of a broken soldering point Now you may buy a new relay, or you follow me, resoldering the relay I use 340°C Bring some lead to the soldering point to increase the heat transport and wait that all is flowing The same with the second soldering point – okay Let’s have a look here – for sure not a bad idea to have fresh lead on all of them This are only mounts, it’s not necessary to refresh them Now it has been nicely hot Now remain the connections of the relay coils Usually they are okay, but I also resolder them You see, both relays are working now and we have the 12V at the output It is working now at every trial It is not neccessary to measure the diode, with a non working diode the relay wouldn’t work The contacts of the relay you may clean with a contact file I lift the contact and I move the file between the contacts and the contacts are fine again The same procedure with the other contact The orientation of the cover is correct, when the printing is on the side of the 2 small pins Let’s see if the relay is working in the car The right orientation you’ll see at the socket, press it in When the engine will start, the relay is okay Again we solved a problem of our S2, see you in our next video