The Moto G4, a solid mid-level device that
passed my durability test. It’s time to take it apart and see what
it’s made of. I have an unopened G5 on my desk, but life
would not be complete without a tear down of its older sibling first. We can test the G5 tomorrow. Let’s get started. [Intro] It’s a pleasant change from when I finally
tear down a device that isn’t glued shut. The back panel is removable, but that only
gives you access to the SIM and SD card trays, everything else is still hidden under 19 d4
screws surrounding that back plastic panel. At this point we can pretty safely assume
that the more screws the phone has, the more durable it’s going to be. There’s one ribbon we need to disconnect
before lifting off that back panel; it’s under this rubber tab. The little ribbon that unsnaps goes to the
camera sensor and flash. The two gold tabs on the opposite side go
to the earpiece. I’ll show you that in just a second. Now this tape does not come off in one piece,
so if you do swap out your screen or battery, it’s going to be easy to tell that someone
has been inside of your phone. The battery connector is a pretty flimsy little
two-prong plug. You don’t see this type of connector very
often anymore. The battery, unfortunately, does not have
any magic pull tabs either. Instead it requires a bit of aggressive negotiation. I’m using that flat side of my metal pry
tool, taking special care not to puncture anything since a punctured battery would be
the end of your phone. This guy is a 3000 milliamp hour which is
actually the same size as the new Galaxy S8…interesting. The eccentric rotating mass vibrator motor
is over here at the bottom of the phone. With the same type of connector that we saw
the battery using. It’s tucked under this black little rubber
blanket that also covers the non-modular micro USB charging port. There are two more T4 screws holding down
the motherboard. Some phone manufacturers, who I won’t name,
seem to be ashamed of their headphone jack. But we have Motorola over here rolling out
the red carpet on top of theirs. Thumbs up for the red decorations, Motorola. It’s actually got a really interesting design
– this headphone jack. It easily pulls out, leaving a ribbon with
gold contact pads inside the little hole in the frame…totally modular. Before the motherboard can lift out of the
screen frame, I’ll disconnect the screen ribbon; it’s under the copper tape. And we have the last little ribbon for the
headphone jack up here at the top. I’ll lift up the latch connector and slip
it out with my tweezers. Before we look at the screen, let’s talk
about the main board, specifically the cameras. The front camera has a little bit of gold
tape covering the latch connector. I’ll set that off to the side next to the
water damage indicator. Once that tape is off, the latch will lift
up unlocking the front camera and it can slip out and away from the motherboard. The rear camera is on the other side. It has the same type of latch connector that
we’ve seen all over this phone. And then both cameras are free. The camera on the left is the larger 13 megapixel
camera. This camera only shoots in 1080p, but since
most TVs and computers are still displaying 1080, that’s fine for the moment. It’s just not future proof. The iPhone 6 only shoots in 1080p as well
and a lot of people are still using those phones. The front facing camera is 5 megapixels. Neither of them have optical image stabilization. Now remember that huge speaker grill on the
front of the phone? This is pretty interesting actually. Take a look at this tiny speaker back here. Talk about compensating. I’ll rip out the extremely large speaker
grill material so we can see exactly what’s going on. There are a few screw holes, but the speaker
is literally only shooting out of that far left side of the grill. Such a strange placement. It’s not even in the center. It’s such a small speaker for such a large
hole. Maybe the sound is supposed to echo down that
chamber or something. Kind of weird. Either way, this is the replacement screen
now. And like always I’ll be including replacement
parts in the video description. Luckily the Moto G4 screens are pretty cheap
now. You might need to separate the old LCD from
the frame. Just use some heat to soften the glue, remove
it, and then reuse the frame for your next screen. Replacement screens should come with adhesive
preinstalled. Once you get the new screen into the frame,
the rest of the assembly is pretty simple. I’ll tuck that earpiece back into the frame. Then the motherboard can literally click down
into place. Make sure the external power and volume buttons
are lined up with the motherboard or you’ll have problems later on. New screen gets clicked in with the metallic
tape over the top of the connector. Then the headphone jack ribbon can get slipped
into the little slot and locked down with the little latch. The vibrator motor needs to be sitting into
the frame, along with the two silver T4 head screws that go into the two holes on the motherboard. Lay out the red carpet for this headphone
jack – couldn’t agree more. And finally the battery goes in with its little
flimsy motherboard connector. Make sure to tuck the black and red wire underneath
the plastic brackets right there alongside the battery. The back plastic slides on, then you can clip
the flash ribbon connector into place. And 19 screws later I’ll toss the exterior
back panel on the phone and hear is satisfyingly snap all around the back. And it’s over. The phone is back together and fully functional. You can join me tomorrow for the durability
test of the Moto G5. We’ll see if the new metal design holds
up as good as its plastic sibling. And check it out – I just did a whole repair
video without once saying the word “Lego” …and… never mind. Thanks for watching. I’ll see you around.