Hey so this is another video by Pet Rock and
today I’m working on my wife’s ’98 Ford Mustang. Today I’m going to be replacing
the brake pads and rotor. So I’m not one of those people who replaces their rotor every
single time they replace their brake pads. These rotors are actually the stock rotors
that came with this vehicle. I’ve had them turned a couple times in order to smooth them
out and they’ve done great. I’ve had no problems with braking performance on this
car. The only reason I’m replacing the rotors now is because I measured the thickness here
and it is now beyond the minimum thickness. So they are due to be replaced. In order to
replace the brake pads you need to remove the caliper. To make your life easier, once
you get it off, it’s best to remove the parking brake cable. And the way you do that
is you just pull out out, slide it over and then down and it will undo itself. Of course
you need to have the parking brake off when you’re doing this otherwise you’ll never
get this brake cable off. Next you take off the emergency brake retaining c-clip. Just
take a screw driver in here and pry out. And then pull the brake cable through. Next your
going to remove the two bolts here and here that are 13mm. You want to try to use a six
sided socket or box wrench on these bolts. The reason being is that these are notorious
for rusting and so you don’t want to strip them when trying to remove them with a 12
point socket for example. I find it best to crack the bolts first before completely removing
them. That gives you the most amount of leverage in case these things do require a little bit
of force. Once you’ve got the two bolts out you take a pry bar or screw driver and
pry out the brake caliper. Make sure not to let this thing drop. You don’t want it to
hang off of the brake line otherwise you could potentially damage the brake line. So you
want to just take it and slide it up out of the way balancing it on the axel so it’s
out of the way. So here are the two brake pads. Mine are pretty worn. Just pull them
out. I caught mine pretty much at the right time. You really don’t want to let your
brake pads go that far. One thing you want to look at when you take these brake pads
off is to make sure that there is even wear all the way around or close to it so this
brake pad is a little thicker on this side then it is on this side. That means that the
caliper wasn’t applying an even amount of pressure. One thing you also want to check
is the function of the slide pins. These pins should move freely. My bottom one is sticking
a little bit. So you want them to move like this. You don’t want them to move like this
or slower. I’m applying a reasonable amount of force on these to get them to move. I’ll
be checking that out later. If you’re replacing your rotors as well you’ll need to remove
this bracket. So this bracket is held on by a bolt here and a bolt here. They are both
15mm. Like the caliper slide pin bolts they are notorious for rusting and stripping. You
might want to apply a little bit of penetrating oil on these to help move them along. I’d
also advise using a long breaker bar or some kind of long extension on your ratchet or
box end wrench when trying to remove these. They are on pretty tight. In addition, like
the slide pin bolts, you want to use a 6 sided socket or box end wrench to open these up
otherwise you can potentially strip them if they are rusty. See some of the rust that
was on this bolt. That’s what I’m talking about. Once you’ve got the last bolt out
just remove the bracket. If this rotor has never been off before you might have one of
those star washer things that come from the factory. You can just take that with a screw
driver and just rip it off and deform it. You don’t really need it. It’s only there
for when they are building the car at the factory. They just put the rotor on, zip that
thing on and they don’t have to worry about it falling off during the assembly process.
Once the car is in the field you don’t have to worry about that because the tire with
the lug nuts will hold the rotor in place. If you live in the rust belt or places where
there is lots of, where you have salt on the roads or things like that it may be difficult
to remove this. It may have rusted itself to the plate on the axle that these lug nuts
are going through. Its also very common for them to rust around this ring right here.
If that happens you can try with the palm of your hand hitting the rotor at 12, 6, 3,
and 9 a couple times around till it gives way. If it still won’t give way you take
a nice large hammer and stick it in-between here. Then you hit the other side of that
hammer. In this case it’s a sledge. You hit the other side of it with another hammer.
You don’t want to just whack in here because chances are you’ll hit the lugs and you’ll
damage the threads and that will just make your day even worse because replacing these
is not as easy as it may sound. So just use this as a plate to hit onto and just hit it
like that in a couple different spots. So now just remove the rotor. Now that you’ve
got everything off you want to take a look at your tone ring if you’ve got ABS. Make
sure it’s on there solid. Take a look at this sensor over here on this side and clean
it off. It’s magnetic. It’s a Hall Effect sensor. So a lot of times metallic brake dust
will stick to it. It doesn’t mean that it’s working any worse. It’s just better to have
this clean. So just hit it with a couple shots of brake clean and you should be fine. In
addition look for any oil leaks around in here. If you have an oil leak that means your
axle seal is leaking and you should replace it. Next we need to press the caliper piston.
But before we do we need to remove some fluid from the master cylinder so it doesn’t overflow
as the fluid gets pushed back up. So what like to do is before I even open the cap just
wipe it down. This ensures that when you open the cap you don’t allow contaminants into
the fluid. So you open the cap up. Put it aside. Get a turkey baster. I prefer the clear
plastic kind so you can see how much you are sucking up and just suck up as much fluid
as you can making sure not to get any of the fluid on your paint. DOT-3 fluid which is
what this car takes is caustic to paint. It will eat through it. So if you value your
paint make sure you don’t drip any. So as you can see my fluid looks kind of dark. That’s
normal for DOT-3 fluid. DOT-3 fluid will absorb moisture in the air and when it does so it
gets darker. It doesn’t mean that it;’s dirty. It just means that it’s got some
moisture in it. A little moisture is not a problem. But a lot of moisture can cause a
spongy brake and can cause other braking issues. Which is why you should change your brake
fluid every two years or so. Now wipe up any fluid you may have dripped and place the cap
on top. Do not screw it on. You don’t want to cause a seal. You want to allow the air
thats in the master cylinder to come out as you compress the caliper which will push the
fluid back up through the master cylinder. Now we have to compress the piston. Now unlike
the front brake calipers these don’t just compress by squeezing them. This confused
me to no end the first time I encountered a brake caliper like this back in the early
‘90s. On a normal, to me, caliper you take a large C-Clamp and just compress this piston
back into it’s bore. However, this caliper is designed where the parking brake is built
into the caliper. So you actually have to twist the piston back into its bore. So there
are a couple different tools you can use to do this. You can buy a tool like this. I’m
not really sure what it is called. A Caliper Key or a Caliper Cube depending on who you
ask. Anyway, it’s got different prongs on it to fit in the little slots here and here
on different brake calipers. Some are in the form of an X some are in different patterns
range. You seat the caliper key in. You apply pressure inward and you rotate clockwise at
the same time. This will work in my opinion in a pinch. This tool is not exactly idiot
proof. Its pretty easy to get off center and have it slip out and you can strip these little
notches. If you look closely somebody already has a little bit at least once before. You
can see the little grooves on the right side right about here. Looks like a little orange
dot. Another solution is to rent a disk brake caliper tool set from your local auto parts
store. This one is part number 27111. It’s made by OEM. You’ve got different keys for
different caliper types. In our case we’ll be using the one that’s marked H014. There
is another one in the kit that’s marked H015 but the studs on it are slightly taller
and that makes it so it doesn’t seat properly in the notches. You use the tool by inserting
the backing place on it like this. You place the key that you are going to use on to the
little notches. Then you seat the whole thing in the caliper making sure that the tabs on
the key line up with the notches in the piston. Then you rotate this inner nut counter clockwise
to move this whole unit this way. This puts pressure on the piston. Then you take the
lever and you rotate it clockwise. Going slow at first to make sure that the piston is sliding
within the boot here. You don’t want the boot to start twisting. If it does take a
little bit of spray silicone lubricant and spray it in here a little bit just so the
dust boot has something to slide with. So you keep rotating clockwise and every once
and a while you need to retighten by turning this nut counter clockwise. And you just keep
turning. The benefit of this tool is that it applies the pressure on the piston and
also gives you good leverage with this arm to rotate the piston. So once it bottoms out
you want to end with these notches vertical. That is so the notches line up with the little
tab that is on the brake pad. If the notches don’t line up with that tab then the pad
won’t seat properly and you’ll have uneven wear and possible brake problems. Once you
get it seated like this all the way down this might be really tight. So just take a wrench
and loosen it clockwise so that you can remove the tool. Now it’s a good idea before, during
and after doing this to inspect this dust boot and make sure that it’s collapsing
properly into itself. You don’t want the dust boot folded over like this because then
it will pinch once you put the pad on. You want to make sure that it’s seated inside
itself like that. If your dust boot is ripped or torn go to your local auto parts store
and pick up a caliper rebuild kit. These boots don’t hold fluid in. They prevent dust from
getting in and ultimately contaminating the system which can cause the piston to seize
in the bore which can cause your brake caliper to seize obviously. And therefore your brakes
to fail. It’s important that these boots are in good condition. So say for example,
once it bottoms out the tool the notches are not vertical. The piston will spin even when
it’s fully bottomed out and fully seated. You can take your caliper key for example
and rotate it until you are at where you need to be. If you don’t have one of those keys
you can just use the key that came with the kit. Taking off the plate here and just rotate
it where you need to be. Now once you’ve got the piston seated just tuck the caliper
away. Before putting the rotor on what I like to do is I like to put a light coat of anti-seize
around this little ring right here. It’s very common for rotors to rust to the hub
in this spot. Not just on this vehicle but pretty much most vehicles have this problem.
Putting anti-seize around this area will prevent the rotor from rusting and make it easier
for you to remove it later when and if you ever have to without having to bang on the
rotor or anything like that. It doesn’t take a lot. Give it a good ring like that.
Next you install the rotor. If you’re reusing your rotors take a caliper and measure the
thickness of the rotor right in here. Around the ring of the rotor there will be stamped
a minimum thickness. In this case I don’t know if you can see it but there is some righting.
Right here it says MIN THK (thickness) 12.8mm. According to the service manual the stock
rotors also have a minimum thickness of 12.8mm. So before you install your new rotor, especially
if it’s new, you need to clean off the outer surface because there is going to be a coating
on there that helps prevent rust in the factory and so you need to remove that before getting
it onto your vehicle. If you are reusing your rotor you should clean it as well to get your
finger prints off of it. Just the shiny part. And then wipe it down. The rotors are slotted.
They are made by a company called Power Slot. The part number for the right side is 126.61042SR.
The left side part number is the same number except the last letter is L as in lamp. So
with slotted rotors they are directional. Each rotor goes on a specific side, so in
this case this is the right rotor. So just slide it on like that. You don’t have to
go slotted. I have slotted on the front of this car and I like them. The only thing I
don’t like about them is that they are a little bit noisy. Not in a squeal, but more
of a groan as you hit the brakes. Thats the brake pads hitting these grooves but it stops
really well so I’m not complaining. I’m not one of those guys who is all about speed.
But stopping? Yeah, that’s usually an important thing. Anyway, so pick whatever rotor you
want. There are ones that can be in the hundreds of dollars and there are some that can be
like as little as ten dollars. But in my opinion you get what you pay for as far as rotors
go. Smooth rotors vs slotted you can argue that all day. Go with whatever you feel like
getting. So once you have the rotor on what I like to do is put one of the lug nuts on
to hold the rotor in place as I’m working with the caliper. Next you want to turn your
attention to the caliper mounting bracket and specifically the slide pins. What you
want to do is you want to take them off just by pulling slightly. Making sure not to break
this boot. If your boots are damaged you want to replace them because they prevent water
from getting in here and rusting these shut. These things need to move freely. Take the
slide pin out and then you take the boot off by just pulling up on it slightly and sliding
it all the way off. Then you take a towel and just wipe it off. Wipe it down. So now
you want to inspect it. Look for any uneven wear, any grooving, any pitting, any rust.
If you see any of those things this is garage. You need to go replace this. It’s only about
fifteen or twenty bucks, something like that, at your local auto parts store for a replacement
kit that I think covers both sides. So if these don’t slide well your brakes don’t
work well. So these pins are almost as important as your brake pads themselves. Next you want
to clean out the bore where your slide pin goes in. Roll up a paper towel and slide it
in there or some q-tips. Some, definitely some brake cleaner and just shoot it in there
and clean it out. And look inside and look for any pitting, rusting or things like that.
If there’s any rust you might get away with putting a piece of Emery cloth on the end
of a drill bit and spinning it in there. Basically a poor mans flapper wheel. And smoothing out
the rust that may be in there. Otherwise you should replace this mounting bracket. Next
you want to take a little bit of brake caliper grease and coat the slide pin, the bore and
the bushing and stuff. You don’t want to use normal chassis grease or things like that
because those types of greases have a tendency to break down rubber. You don’t want this
rubber bushing breaking down and falling apart. The other benefit of brake caliper grease
is that it can withstand high temperatures that brake systems tend to incur. A lot of
greases, especially chassis grease or multi-purpose grease will liquify when they get very hot.
Brake caliper grease does not do that. So you want to take a little bit of brake caliper
grease and stick it in the bore and lastly put some in the slide pin. You don’t need
a whole ton. You just need enough to coat. Now you take your rubber boot. You have two
different ends on it. You slide the boot on. Spin it around a little bit to make sure that
it is seated in that groove. Take the caliper mounting bracket. Stick the slide pin in and
then you want to put the rubber boot overtop of this lip. And the way I do that is you
just push on it and give it a good spin to make sure its seated. So once you’ve done
this side you do the same thing on the other. Next you want to put some brake caliper grease
on the spot on the spots that the brake pads slide on. As you can see this is a good wear
spot. So you want to make sure that this is nice and lubed and not rusty. If there is
rust on here you want to take some Emory cloth and clean it off otherwise your brake pads
won’t slide properly. Just put a little bit on. It doesn’t take a lot. Coat this
flat part as well as this ledge right here and here. Basically anywhere that the brake
pad slides upon. If you see any grooves or pitting or any kind of other marks like that
you need to replace this mounting bracket. Any type of grooves or pitting will prevent
the brake pad from moving properly and you’ll have a seized brake caliper which is no fun.
Make sure you clean up any excess that got in the gap in the middle so that it doesn’t
get onto your rotor when you install it. If you get any grease on the rotor you need to
clean it off with some brake cleaner and make sure you don’t get it on your brake pads.
Next you want to install the mounting bracket. Before you do you want to add a little bit
of anti-seize and just put it on the tip of the bolt. Thats it. Thats all you need. These
things have a tendency to rust and anti-seize will help prevent that so when you try to
remove it later you won’t strip them out of brake the bolt. Now you take your bracket,
slide it in place. Slide the bolt through the back and put anti-seize on the other bolt,
slide it through the back. Line it up and again start it by hand. Now you take your
15mm socket and run them down. Next you want to torque these down to between 65 & 87 ft/lbs.
I like to take those torque those torque specs and split them in half so that makes it 76
ft/lbs. Now it’s time to install the brake pads. Now, if you are installing new rotors
it is always a good idea to install new brake pads to go with it because your old brake
pads are going to be grooved and carved to fit your old rotor. Not your new rotor. So
these brake pads come with tangs on the top and the bottom that slide in here. There is
all these little brackets that come with the brake pads that are actually what slide against
the caliper mounting bracket. So when I got these they didn’t quite fit right because
this metal tab right here was down to far. So what I did was I just took it and I bent
it up a little bit because that little tab is what holds it against the pad. So the way
you install the clips is take the pad and the clip. Put them together like this and
then rotate upwards. Put similar clips on all four pads on both brake pads. So to install
the brake pad you put the pad in the slot. Take a screw driver, press down on the top
clip and slide it into place. Then you do the same thing on the other side. Next you
have to install this metal clip in the top of the caliper. This came with my brake pad
set but you can pick them up at your local auto parts store. This is used to allow these
springs here to close against this smooth metal rather then the rough cast iron. To
install it there is a smooth end and there is an end with a little bump or clip whatever
you want to call it. So you take the smooth end you insert it in here like this pressing
down so that the smooth end comes in here that will allow you to push the clip down
and slide it forward. You press down further and push and it will slide into place. So
you ultimately want it to be on there like that. So the clip hooks onto this little ledge
right here. The smooth part is smooth right there. So like with any moving parts in a
brake system you want to apply a little bit of brake caliper grease to the smooth part
to allow the metal springs on the back of the brake pads to slide easier. Next double
check that the flat part of the slide pins is facing inward because they need to interface
with this flat part right here on the caliper on both sides. Right there and right there.
So now you take your caliper. Slide it over the brake pads. If you need to slide the slide
pins inward to make clearance. Take a little bit of anti-seize, put it on the tip of the
bolt. Slide it into place and start it by hand making sure that the flat part of the
slide pin is coming in contact with the flat part n the caliper. Now press down on the
caliper making sure that the flat part again is coming in contact with the flat part on
the caliper. Thread the bolt in by hand with a little bit of anti-seize on the tip. Next
you torque the slide pin bolts here and here to between 23 and 25 ft/lbs. So cut that in
half, 24. You might have trouble getting the torque wrench in here to get this bolt right
here because of the parking brake spring. So 23 to 25 ft/lbs is not that much. You can
take an open end wrench or a box wrench preferably and tighten then down by hand. Just snug it
down real good. Next you install the parking brake. Just slide it into the hole. Next you
take the c-clip and slide it into the groove. Sorry for blocking the light. Make sure that
it snaps into place and that you can rotate it freely. Make sure its fully seated. Next
get a pair of pliers, pull out on the end of the parking brake and slide it into the
groove. So as you can see the caliper is very loose right now. This is what its supposed
to do when it’s floating on these slide pins. But right now they are very loose because
the piston is retracted all the way. So you need to pump the brake pedal multiple times
in order to expand the piston and close the gap between it and the brake pads. Then make
sure to top off the master cylinder. Now would also be a perfect time to bleed or flush the
brakes. I have a video about how to do that by yourself with a simple hand vacuum pump.
You can do four wheels within a half hour. It’s something you should do every couple
of years anyways because brake fluid absorbs water which makes it loose its efficiency
and gives you a spongy pedal. You always want to replace brake pads in pairs. So once you’ve
done this you want to definitely do the other side. Same with rotors. If you replaced one,
a rotor you should replace the other side as well. This is primarily to maintain the
amount of wear. So when you inspect this one and see that it’s low you know that the
other side is probably the same. So that’s pretty much it for this brake caliper. During
your test drive you want to take it easy to allow the brakes time to break in and get
used to the new rotor. You don’t want to make it any quick or sudden stops. You want
to make gradual slow stops. Especially at the very beginning. Anyway, so I hope this
video helped you out. If you have any questions, comments or concerns please leave them in
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