Hey this is another video by Pet Rock. Today
I’m working on a friend of a friends 2003 Ford P.O.S. I mean Ford Escort ZX2. I have
no idea what size the motor is. I’m just going to call it small. So a little bit of a back
story with this car. A buddy of mine was driving it. Its his friends car and all of a sudden
a large, loud grinding noise came from the drivers side wheel. So he pulled over and
as he was pulling over he stuck his head out the window and he could see that the wheel.
The front wheel was wobbling. And he pulled over, he pulled the tire off and noticed that
the spindle nut had literally come off. It was just, it was being held inside the wheel
by that little black cap right there. What had happened was the wheel bearing had basically
disintegrated and the spindle nut had backed itself out. By, I’m assuming, friction from
the wheel hub that had also basically been destroyed. And so what resulted was the only
thing holding the wheel onto this car was the brake caliper. I’m surprised this thing
literally didn’t just fly down the road. Anyway, so he calls me up, its like 8 o’clock in the
morning which is not a time that I’m normally awake. Not even close. He calls me up and
tells me to load up a bunch of tools and I go over and find him on the side of the road.
I ended up band-aiding it by just getting a new spindle nut and tightening it down and
putting everything back together again. And we babied it back to my house. Bad wheel bearing
and hub and all. And made an awful lot of noise going down the streets around my neighborhood.
Anyway, so got it to my house. I’m going to. Today I’m going to take a look. Take the wheel
off and take a look at the wheel bearing. Replace it and the hub and hopefully get this
thing out of my garage. Ok, so I’ve got the front end all jacked up. Both sides. I’ve
got the real wheels chucked with some blocks of wood so that the car doesn’t roll off the
jack stands I have it on. Its a front wheel drive car so the rear wheels are just free
spinning. So you chuck them. Be careful. Safety first. I wanted to show you how bad this wheel
bearing was. So watch. That’s a lot of movement and not a lot of force to do it in. I’m going
to get this wheel off and start diving in. So this is the spindle nut that I put on.
The old one is garbage and is in the back seat right now. If you look right here there
is a notch in this center part and the outer edge of this nut has been bent in. I did this
with a chisel on the side of the road in order to get this thing up and going again. Its
basically, the whole point in that notch is the prevent the nut from spinning off. Which
is exactly what it, the old one did. First thing you got to do is take this part that’s
been bent in and bend it out so you can have a chance of spinning this thing off. You can
use a screw driver or anything you can find to get this thing, get the part out. These
nuts are one use only so don’t be afraid to destroy it. You don’t want to gauge up this
part though. The part that it screws onto. That is part of the CV-Axle. You don’t want
to damage that. So just be careful. So I guess I put this on too well on the side of the
road. I can’t get any of my prying tools in this little groove here. So what I’m going
to try to do is I’m going to take the chisel and basically just deform the crap out of
it. That might be good enough just to get it loose. So now the next part is I’m going
to, I have air tools however it is currently 1 o’clock in the morning and I can’t use them
per the wife. She’s sleeping right now. Anyway, so I’ll show you a way, a method of getting
this off without having to, without having to resort to air tools. So I put the wheel
back on the ground. I only have one lug nut currently holding it on. It is on fairly tight
so I don’t have to worry about it falling out. I also popped out the center cover in
this wheel hub and this allows me to take the 32, 32mm deep well socket that I rented
from AutoZone. It’s part number, its an OEM part number 27051. It’s an axle nut socket.
You can rent it from AutoZone. I don’t remember how much it is but when you return it I’ll
get my money back. So it’s ultimately free. I love that system. Anyway, so, it’s helped
me out immensely over the years. So just put the socket on. Get a breaker bar, and yours
is probably going to be tighter then this one because this one I put on on the side
of the road with just my body weight. So what you do is you put a breaker bar on here and
get either a longer extender pipe if you want more leverage or if you’ve got some girth
you can just stand on it which is what I’m going to do. It probably won’t take much from
me. There we go. That was a lot easier then I thought it was going to be. So basically
loosen it up. Once you’ve gotten it loose, then you put the, you don’t take it off all
the way. You want to put the wheel back up in the air. Ok, I’ve got it back up off the
ground and I’m going to take the nut off the rest of the way. This little piece right here
is now a paper weight. It is garbage. Do not reuse this. Get a new one. They are like 5
or 6 bucks at the auto parts store. So the next order of business is to take off the
wheel caliper right here. There are two nuts holding it on back here. Sorry, bolts I should
say. There are two bolts back there. They are 14mm. Just pop them right off. Ratcheting
wrenches are awesome. And now it’s free. So once you have it free you want to take a bungee
cord or rope or something and hold it up against, just hang it up off the spring. You want to
avoid dangling the brake off of the, the caliper off the brake hose. So in addition I’m going
to remove this retainer clip from, that’s holding the brake hose onto the strut assembly.
This is just going to give me a little more slack on the, on the brake hose so that it
doesn’t, it doesn’t have as much tension on it. This little c-clip style thing and then
you should be able to with a little bit of finagling take the brake hose out. And so
now its not twisted up and kinked back there. So, well now that I got all that off. This
is free. Next thing we’ve gotta do is take off the tie rod end. There’s a, there’s a
cotter pin and a castle nut, 17mm castle nut on the bottom holding that on. There you go.
If your car comes equipped with anti-lock brakes you’ll want to remove the sensor which
will probably be somewhere in here next before removing this. At least with the method I’m
going to use. The reason being is the method I use is a B.F.H. and just hit the spindle
about right there. The sensor can sometimes be sensitive to vibration, extreme vibration
like this. So you want to remove it first to get it out of the way so it doesn’t, you
don’t damage it. You don’t want to hit up on the tie rod end because that will make
the end mushroom. And we want to reuse this tie rod end. We don’t want to destroy it which
is also why you don’t want to use a pickle fork for example to jam it in there and, those
tend to destroy the boots on these things. Anyway, so you take a hammer like this one
and give it a couple of mice whacks right here. So here we go. There you go. So next
I’m going to try to pull this, the hub off. Now what we’re doing here, this will either
pull the hub off or it will push the axle shaft through the hub. Both of which need
to happen. So either one is a win in this case. So I rented this 2 ton 3 jaw puller
from AutoZone. It’s an OEM 2 ton 3 jaw puller, part number 27011. You just hook up a half
inch socket and crank it down and it will do one of two things. And it’s pushing the,
it pushed, it pushed the axle through. This is just as good because we need it out anyway.
Now I’ve got it wedged a little bit, so I’m going to, next thing I’m going to take this
hub out I know this bearing is destroyed inside. I know it’s very loose. When I took, when
I took this thing apart on the side of the road this just fell out. So it’s actually
a little bit surprising to me right now that it’s stuck in there like this. So just a couple
taps on it should probably get it loose again. Ok, so I finally got it out. It took a lot
of prying and what not. And here’s the inner, the outer race of the wheel bearing that this
is supposed to be pressed onto. If you notice I can spin it. You shouldn’t be able to do
that. This should be a very tight fit between the race, the inner races of the bearing and
the wheel hub. This indicates that the wheel hub has been ground down on the inside which
means this wheel hub is garbage. So it’s not even salvageable. I have to get a new one.
Anyway, as you can see if you look you can kind of see the shiny balls inside of the
wheel bearing and all the dirt and grime that’s in there. This bearing had been bad for quite
a while. There is another set of balls on the other side. This bearing had been bad
for quite a while this isn’t an overnight thing. Anyway, so it’s now free. I’ve put
the, I put the outer tie rod, the outer tie rod back in with the nut on for a couple threads
just to prevent the, the spindle from turning when I was prying on it. Next thing to do
is to get the lower ball joint disconnected so that we can get this CV-axle all the way
out. We want to do the lower ball joint first as apposed to doing the upper part first because
we need to be able to pry on the lower control arm, pry down in order to help separate the
ball joint from the spindle. If this is disconnected on the top you’re not going to be able to
do that very effectively. You want to get the bottom one first and then disconnect the
top. It’s two 14mm, it’s a bolt, bolt head on this side and a nut on this side. I added
some penetrating oil to it already. So once you’ve got the bolt, the nut mostly unscrewed
just so its basically at the very end of the bolt like that now would be a good time to
give it a couple taps to shoot the nut through the other side breaking up any rust that may
be holding that bolt in place. Then just screw the nut the rest of the way off. Now the nut
should be not necessarily free but more then it was. Now you can just take a pry bar or
some kind of tool like this and get it the rest of the way out. So now that you’ve got
it free it’s a good idea to hit it, the top of it with penetrating oil because these tend
to rust in there. And then once you, once you’ve got that in take a chisel or a large
screw driver and put it in here and tap it through. The point is to, the point of doing
that is two jaws, the two jaws that are around the ball joint socket so that you can try
to get this out. So now that you’ve got that wedged in there you take a big pry bar, snake
it through one side and have it resting underneath the chassis. That will give you leverage so
that when you push down and separate the ball joint. So now that it’s separated you should
be able to pull the CV-axle the rest of the way out. Now it’s time to undo these bolts
here. These nuts here I should say. So they’re both 17, their both 17mm. Just take a beaker
bar and loosen them up. Penetrating oil is also helpful here. Again like the other one.
I only want to undo the bolt most of the way. This allows me to take this hammer and hit
it. That will push the bolt the rest of the way through and brake up any rust that may
be holding it in place. So now we just take the nut the rest of the way off. And there’s
our prize. I now have a very greasy and destroyed spindle. So I brought the spindle over to
my bench to and I’ve put it into my vise just to hold it up to get a better view. And the
bearing is being held in place by this snap ring right here. It goes all the way around.
Two holes there. And there is a corresponding one on the other side. So the first thing
you want to do is get a pair of snap ring pliers and put on your safety glasses because
these tend to spring when you don’t want them to. Sorry if I’m blocking this on the camera.
Get them moving a little bit and then you put a screw driver behind it to push it out.
It’s not as easy as it looks. There we go. Now once we’ve got it started now I can just
pry it the rest of the way. So once you’ve got it started you just pry it the rest of
the way out. Making sure that you’re wearing your safety glasses because this will spring
out. This one is a bit rusty but still good. Now you’ve got your bearing surface in here.
Now we just turn it around and check out the other side. So this side has the seal still
in it. It’s all destroyed. From rubbing up against the, from rubbing up against the CV-axle.
So there’s your seal. That’s garbage. So upon closer inspection there’s a lip that goes
all the way around this thing that’s a part of the cast iron that I think is the back
stop for the, for the bearing. So that metal right there is actually part of the spindle.
Here is the bearing in here. On this side, this metal up in here that’s the bearing.
So I ended up taking the spindle to a local mechanic to press in the new bearing and hub
assembly. Ended up cost, charging me 50 bucks to do it. I asked him to keep, to give me
the old bearing just as carnage proof. I like to keep things that I’ve noticed have been
destroyed. I tried getting it out myself with a hammer and some punches and stuff. But it
just wouldn’t come out. The guy said that he had to actually use his larger, his larger
press to get the bearing out because his normal 5 ton of whatever size it was couldn’t get
this thing out. Couldn’t even get it to budge. So he ended up having to use his larger one.
There was probably no chance in hell I was going to get it out myself. But if you want
to try on yours. Yours might be better. There’s a bearing, a bearing seal and race driver
set that you can rent from AutoZone. 27119. It has a, it has a piece in it that fits,
fits perfectly right in here, inside the race and you can take the driver attachment that
comes with it and just beat the crap out of it to push it out that way. And then to reinstall
you can just use one of the, one of the slightly larger ones to tap it back in when you’re
installing it. To get the hub in one of these. I think it’s this one. Yeah, this one. If
you get it straight in there it will actually bottom out in this little cup in here. If
you get it straight in. If it’s slightly cocked it won’t, but you can get it in there and
then you can hit this with a hammer. The bigger the better. You know like, to drive the, drive
the hub back in. That may work for you. You may also want to try renting a ball joint
press, also from AutoZone, They have more then just one use. This one is part number
27023. It’s a giant C style clamp that you can set up however you want. This one, this
just fits just barely here. And then also the same on the front. You might be able to
get that to work.again, I tried this as well and I couldn’t get it to budge no matter how
hard I tried. I even whipped out my air tools and pissed off my wife at 3 in the morning
to try and it just wouldn’t budge. So anyway, you might have better luck. Alternatively
there is actually a bearing driver kit that you can pick up from Harbor Freight. I don’t
have the number handy right now but I’ll list it in the description and what not. It cost
about 99 dollars. I haven’t tried it. I’ve seen some videos online of people using it
and it seems to be successful and fairly simple. Since this is a one off job I didn’t want
to pay 99 dollars for a new tool even though I love new tools. So I ended up going to a
shop and getting it done. He charged me 50 bucks. If I had to do two of these I would
have bought the tool. Ok, so now that you’ve got the bearing in. The next thing you need
to do is you need to replace, or reinstall the wheel bearing seal. This was the one that
came out of this one. It’s destroyed. This is the new one. It’s made by Timken. I picked
it up at AutoZone also. It’s part number 1932S as in Sam. And it just goes right in here.
Like that. It’s a press fit. You can just tap it in. If you actually rent that ball
joint press. The largest ring that comes with it fits perfectly around it. So that’s what
I’m going to use to tap this sucker in. Once I find my hammer. Just lightly tap all the
way around. It doesn’t take a lot. It will go on it’s own. You will hear the difference
in the ting noise that it makes as it, as it seats itself. So once you’ve got the seal
in next is to start putting everything back together again. Now we’ll go back over to
the car. Ok before you install the spindle you want to put a little but of lube or oil
around the seal. You never want to install a seal dry. Even though this, this is one
that doesn’t hold any oil back it is still a seal and it’s rubber that’s going to be
sliding against metal. So you want to give it at least the best chance it has off the
bat. So any oil will do. I happen to have transmission fluid from my recent transmission
fluid change on my Durango. And so I’ll just use that. Make sure that you get all these
surfaces that will be rubbing up against things that are metal. So the next thing that you
want to do is you want to put a little bit of anti-seize. This is anti-seize, this is
copper. The silver kind will work just as well. The copper kind takes heat a little
bit better which this area will be full of heat because of the brakes. So you want to
take a little bit of anti-seize and put it on the splines of the CV-axle. This is for,
this is done for two reasons. One is so that it will slide in better and two is if you
ever have to take this thing apart again it will come off a lot easier. And will most
likely not be rusted in place. You don’t need a whole ton. Just enough to give it a good
coat. And if you get any on the threads just wipe it off with a rag. That’s one thing I
forgot to say. Make sure you clean the, you clean the CV-axle first. I already did that
off camera. Make sure that you clean it nice and good with, with some brake cleaner. And
get all the gunk and dirty and any metal shavings that were from the old bearing if you have
any. Mine did, I mean this one did. And clean it up first before you put the anti-seize
on. Ok now that you’ve got things lubed up. Next thing you want to do is put the spindle
on the, on the ball joint. You want to do it this way, which is opposite of the way
we took it off because it is a lot easier to line these holes up with the shock which
is now extended itself all the way then it is to have this attached to the shock and
then try to push the control arm down. It’s just a lot easier. And then try to align this
pin from the ball joint in the hole. Before you put the spindle back on make sure that
you check the condition of the ball joint. If it’s bad replace it. You might as well
while you’re in there. If it’s all wobbly, if the, if the little rubber boot is damaged
just replace it. There is no point in doing this job twice. Next you want to thread the
spindle onto the axle shaft. Try to push it in as far as it will go. And then next align
the top of the spindle with the strut. So next we’ll put a little bit of anti-seize
on the flat part of the bolt. And install the bolt. It’s easier, it’s often easier to
install the bottom bolt first because you have plenty of wiggle room to line it up.
There you go. And then once the top one’s in, if you notice it going to be a little
bit cocked this way so you just push in a lot easier then you can if the bottom bolt
was not aligned. If the bottom bolt was not in. There. Next you put a little dab of anti-seize
on the threads of the bolt. Not a whole lot. You just want a little bit. A little dab ‘ll
do ya. You just want to put a little dab on the end of the, on the end of the bolt. A
little bit will go a long way. You don’t need to coat the entire, all the threads with anti-seize.
You can actually put too much anti-seize on and it can actually effect the torque values,
torque settings you put on. Anyway, so you just take the nut and screw it on and the
act of actually screwing it on will spread the anti-seize down the threads. So I’ll show
you. So now if you look closely there is a good coating of anti-seize throughout the
entire bolt. So you put both nuts back on just finger tight for now. So now that that’s
done you take the bolt for the ball joint put a little bit of anti-seize on it too.
I like to put the bolts back in the same direction that they were when I took it apart. This
makes things easier. Now that I got that one I can take a little dab of anti-seize on the
end of the threads. Anti-seize, if you live in an area where there is a lot of rust this
stuff will save your life. It’s so, it makes your life so much easier when you have to
take something apart, even if it’s not you. Even if your working on someone else’s car
like I am and will probably never see this car again. It will make either your life,
if you ever have to do this job again or it will make whoever next looking in this area
it will make their lives so much easier they will love you for it. Anyway, so now we’ve
got that, those nuts, the nuts in and bolts in finger tight now we’re going to tighten
them up. Now we torque down the ball joint pinch bolt. Now, using my Google-Fu, I found
the torque spec online. And the torque spec for the pinch bolt is between 32 and 43 ft/lbs.
And the torque spec for the top two bolts is 69 to 86 ft/lbs. So I like to take the
middle point between those, the rough middle point, so I’m going to be torquing the bottom
one to 38 ft/lbs. So next you want to torque the upper two bolts between 69 and 86 ft/lbs.
So I’m halving that, so I’ll put it around 78 ft/lbs. So if your car has an ABS sensor
you’ll want to install it now. This car doesn’t so I don’t need to. Once you’ve got the ABS
sensor installed you can hook the tie-rod back together making sure to inspect the tie
rod itself making sure that it’s nice and tight, that the shaft isn’t all wobbly and
loose. And also make sure that the boot is in good condition. If it’s not replace it.
One thing about tie rod ends is if one’s going the other one is likely going too so you might
as well replace them both. That’s just my, you don’t have to, that’s not necessarily
a law it’s just how I tend to, tend to do it. So this lower castle nut, this castle
nut right here that I’m tightening on right now. You tighten that down to 23 to 34 ft/lbs.
And you want to align the castle nut, the ridges of the castle nut with the hole that
s in the, that’s in the shaft of the tie rod end. If as you’ve got it tightened down and
torqued down if the ridges or valleys I should say of the castle nut don’t line up with the
hole in the shaft don’t worry about it, just take a regular, a regular socket and wrench
and tighten it down a little but to make it, till it lines up. You don’t want to go too
far. Like you don’t to make it jump two valleys. You just want to make it line up so that you
can get the, get the thing on. So in this case I’m just a little bit off. So I don’t
need a lot of extra torque. So you never want to reuse a cotter pin. You always want to
use a new one. You may, just like bending it, you can possibly get away with, get away
with using it again you tend to warp them so much that they tend to be a bitch to get
back into the hole. So it’s easier just to replace it with a new one. They are relatively
cheap. I picked up this box of an assortment from my local auto parts store. It’s made
by Dorman, part number 799-420. It comes with a whole bunch of cotter pins. It’s just safer
and easier to just replace the damn thing. Next you find a cotter pin that matches the
old one. Just tap it in there like that. And then either use your hand or a pair of dikes,
wire cutters whatever you call it and bend the tangs over. Now we’ll put the spindle
nut on. You don’t want to put anti-seize, you can if you really want to, but I don’t
want to put anti-seize on these threads here because I actually don’t want this thing moving.
I don’t want it coming off again. So anti-seize will only remove the hindrance of rust. And
you kind of want rust on your side in this case. At least with the history of this car
where the spindle nut came off. So I’m just going to put it on finger tight. The new one
that came with the hub. Just put it on finger tight like that and leave it. I’m going to
tighten it up later. Before putting the caliper on you want to put a little bit of anti-seize
around the hole. This is the part of the, that’s the part of the hub that the caliper
basically slides over. And I don’t know about in your area but in the place where I grew
up where there was a lot of rust it was very common for disk brakes to basically weld themselves
to the hub. Put a little bit of anti-seize on it and that will basically clear that whole
problem up. So now put the rotor back on. Be careful not to get any grease or anything
else. Let me see if I can get this in the picture. This is kind of cool. But if you
notice the two tone of the sides of the, sides of the rotor. Hopefully this is focusing.
This is where the caliper, the rotor was basically grinding inside the middle of the caliper.
I’m actually shocked that the surface of this rotor is not destroyed. You can still see
the lines in it from the last time this rotor was turned on both sides. So this guy was
lucky. This could have been a lot worse. And if you look you can see where the rotor dug
a groove into the brake caliper. That’s nasty. So now we put the rotor on. I like to take
a lug nut or two. Just snug them down with your fingers. This makes it so that the rotor
won’t move around as your trying to put the caliper on. This rotor comes with a little
hole for a screw that would mate up with the hub. However, the screw for this thing is
long gone. I don’t know where it is. It didn’t come with the car so I have nothing to put
back on. If you have, if you do have the screw for yours make sure you try to reinstall it.
So now we put the, take the brake caliper off of it’s little hook. Line the brakes,
brake pads up with the rotor. There we go. So once you’ve got the caliper on over the
rotor, you want to take a little bit of caliper, brake caliper grease and coat the, just put
a light coat, on the smooth part of the bolt. This stuff is called, is specifically designed
for brake systems where they get very high temperatures where normal grease will just
brake down and just ooze out. This stuff won’t it will stick around for a while. The other
added benefit of this stuff is that it doesn’t, it doesn’t make rubber deteriorate like chassis
grease would for example like you put in ball joints and what not. So you want to use this
stuff whenever you are servicing your brakes. Anyway, so you put a light coat on the, on
the flat part of the threads and then put a little dab of anti-seize on the tip again
so if ever you are on the side of the road for example and you need to take this off
like I did if it’s rusted in there good luck doing that without stripping this tiny little
bolt. There is not a lot of meat on this head if you notice. So all the help you can get
the better. Additionally, these two bolts are different sizes. If you notice I have
the heads lined up and this one is shorter then this one. The longer one goes on the
top. Slide the caliper bolt back in. Line it up with the hole. Screw it in by hand initially.
You don’t have to put it in all the way. Just put it in a couple threads. And then slide
the second one into position. Make sure not to cross thread this. If you cross thread
it and destroy these threads. You’ll either have to drill it out and put a Helli-coil
in or replace the spindle which is counter productive to what you just did which was
replacing this bearing. So next you torque down the brake caliper bolts. The torque spec
is 29 to 36 ft/lbs. I’m going to put it at 33. There we go. There you go. Don’t forget
to put the brake line back in it’s little spot with this little clip. If you notice
the clip is shaped like a U, with a little bit of a cup to it. This side right here,
this side goes towards the plate. So you want to install it like that. So what I’ve found
is the easiest way to do it, to install it, is to get it started like that and take a
large set of channel locks and squeeze. Making sure not to bend, not to bend the tab. Once
it’s all the way on take a little bit of brake clean and clean up the caliper and the rotor
of any fingerprints and oil and what not that you got on this thing when you were manhandling
it. So now we take the two bolts off and we put the tire back on with one lug nut for
now. So now we can lower the, lower the car so the weight of the car is on the wheel and
we can tighten down the spindle nut. So now that you’ve got it down on the ground you
take your 32mm socket and tighten it down as far as you can get it by hand. Then you
get a torque wrench that can hold, that can do 174 to 235 ft/lbs. So I’m going to use
about 200 ft/lbs. There. So now we’ve got that torqued down. We’ve got to jack the car
back up so we can stake the spindle nut. Take a small, preferably more blunt then sharp,
chisel and you see this little notch right here you need to basically hit down on it
like this to bend this outer lip into that notch. The whole point of that notch is to
prevent the spindle nut from spinning off. The better you have it jammed in there the
less likely it’s going to spin off. So again with the history of this car where it spun
off before I’m going to get that in there pretty darn tight. So as you can see there
I got it pretty well caved in and that’s about it for this spindle nut. Next you put the
tire back on and take it for a test drive. See how it sounds. Make sure its not making
any odd noises and things like that.