Begin by clearing out all of the
products and supplies under the sink. You should also have a shallow pan
and a couple of old towels standing by to catch any water. And since much of the job
will be done on your back, a pillow will make the
work easier to bear. If you have an electrical
outlet beneath your sink, turn off power to it before
you remove the old faucet, and restore power only after you’ve
tested the new faucet for leaks. Since you have to work
upside down under the sink, be sure to wear safety glasses to
protect your eyes from falling debris. You may need to use a
flashlight for better visibility inside a deep cabinet. Reach in and shut off the hot
and cold water supply valves by turning them clockwise. Depending upon the type of valve, this
may take anywhere from a quarter turn to several turns until the
water is completely off. If you don’t have stop valves
already installed in your bathroom, you’ll need to turn off the
water to the entire house. You might consider installing
them under the sink, so you can turn off the
water easily in the future. Valves that haven’t been used
in a while may be hard to turn. If you have difficulty, try
using a rag or a pair of pliers to improve your grip. With the water turned
off, open up the faucet handles to relieve any
pressure in the lines. To remove the old faucet, you’ll
first need to go under the sink and disconnect the supply lines
that run from the faucet down to the hot and cold valves. Each supply line is connected to the
corresponding valve by a threaded nut. Use an adjustable wrench to remove each
nut by turning it counterclockwise. As you do, make sure
you stabilize the water pipe while you loosen the supply lines. Otherwise, you could compromise
any connections behind the cabinet. It’s a good idea to have
the pan ready to collect the small amount of water that will
drain out from the disconnected lines. Once you’ve disconnected the
water supply line on one side, repeat the process for the other side. If the valve drips, even though the
handle is turned completely off, it means you have a faulty valve. You’ll need to turn off the water to
the entire house in order to replace it. You’ll need to take out the old
supply line connections to your faucet before you can remove it. On this two handle center set
faucet, the two water supply lines are connected directly to
the hot and cold valves. Because the mounting nut securing
the faucet are installed first, you’ll need to unscrew the supply line
connections before you can remove them. If you’re removing a single handle
faucet, all of your water connections will be part of the spout
assembly, since there are no hot and cold handles. On faucets like this where the supply
lines are built into the faucet, any mounting hardware is made to
slide directly over the lines. Finally, your old kitchen
faucet may have a diverter. On these faucets, there
is a separate supply line that connects between the
spout and a side sprayer. You’ll need to disengage
this connection before you can remove the faucet and sprayer. One of the difficulties in
taking out the old faucet is reaching up into this tight
space and gaining enough leverage to remove the connections. There are a couple of important
tools that will make this job easier. A basin wrench contains a ratcheting
head with teeth designed to grip hard to reach retaining
nuts behind the sink. The handle pivots 90 degrees
allowing you to turn it from below. This faucet and sink installer
is a multipurpose tool designed for several under
the sink applications. After unscrewing the nuts
connecting the supply lines to the hot and cold valves,
use the basin wrench to take off the nut connecting
the diverter to the sprayer hose. If you’re positive you won’t
be using the old faucet again, you can cut the line with
a pipe or tubing cutter. Once you’ve disconnected all of
the water lines under the sink, you’re ready to remove
the mounting hardware. The old faucet will be connected
to the underside of the cabinet by some type of mounting hardware. A single handle faucet will
typically have the mounting hardware connected to a single shank that
contains the hot and cold supply lines. For a two handle center
set faucet, the mounts will usually be found on the
hot and cold valve bodies. You’ll need to remove all
of the mounting hardware in order to remove the faucet. If any nuts or mounting hardware
is rusted or difficult to remove, apply a penetrating oil, like
PB Blaster, to loosen it. Give it time to soak in, and you
may need more than one application before you can get it off. With the mounting hardware removed,
the faucet should lift out. You may need to apply pressure
to break any caulk seal. When you’re finished,
clean the area thoroughly around the sink with an approved cleaner
before installing your new faucet. The number and placement of the holes
in your countertop or drop in sink will determine the type
of faucet you can put in. You may have anywhere
from one to four holes. The fourth hole is typically used
for a sprayer or soap dispenser. The distance between the
holes is called the spread. And you can determine
your spread by measuring between the centers of
the three main holes. An eight inch spread on
center is the most common and is necessary to fit
most center set faucets. A center set faucet is any one
where the handles and spout are all part of one single unit. A two handle center set has
separate hot and cold handles that are connected to the base. These fit cleanly into
the outside holes. A single handle center set faucet
has the handle connected directly to the spout. You can either mount it directly to the
countertop for a one hole installation, or use an escutcheon plate, which
will cover up the two outside holes. Another option is a widespread faucet,
where the handles and the faucet are separate individual units. These can be installed with any spread. Finally, if you’d like
a sprayer, but you don’t have enough holes
in your countertop, you might consider a pullout sprayer. These are part of the spout. And they’ll pull out
and retract as needed. The remainder of this
video will show you the installation of a
single handle center set faucet with an escutcheon plate. In this case, the hot
and cold supply lines are built directly into the faucet. It also has a diverter, which
will connect to a side sprayer. Refer to the manufacturer’s
instructions for the proper assembly of your new faucet. For this unit, we’ll place a
faucet gasket onto the spout base. Then slide the spout base over the
supply lines and onto the faucet body. Make sure all the components
fit together properly. If you’re doing a one hole installation,
you will not use the escutcheon plate. There should be separate components
supplied with your faucet if you’re planning to
use this configuration. But if you have a three
hole installation, the escutcheon is needed to
cover up the two outside holes. It should also have a gasket to
seal the gap between the escutcheon and the countertop. Place the gasket onto the
underside of the escutcheon plate. Slide it over the supply lines
and onto the shank of the faucet. Now, place it onto the mounting surface. The escutcheon should cover
the first and third holes. Then go below deck for the
remainder of the installation. For single handle faucets, the mounting
hardware usually connects to the shank below the deck. This unit has a washer that goes against
the countertop and a mounting nut with three mounting screws
that tighten up against it. Other facets will have
different mounting hardware. And some manufacturers may have
additional hardware for thin decks. Screw the nut all the way up until
it’s a half inch below the surface. Then tighten down the
mounting screws evenly until the faucet assembly is tight
against the underside of the cabinet. Before tightening
everything down completely, have someone help you make sure
the faucet is lined up properly behind the sink. A single handle faucet
has hot and cold valves that are part of the spout assembly. In many cases, it will also have
flexible supply lines built in as well. Some faucet types have state of the art
supply lines called PECS tubing already installed as part of the hot
and cold valves of the faucet. On other faucets, the hot and
cold valves have a threaded nut. And you’ll need to attach your
own flexible supply lines. This is typically a 1/2 inch male
connection coming out of the faucet. Make sure you use Teflon tape on
the threads before installing. For your single handle
faucet, the built in supply lines will come labeled as hot and cold. And you’ll need to connect these to
the corresponding water supply valves. With the hot and cold water supply
lines attached to your faucet, you’ll next connect the other end
of the corresponding water supply valve coming out of the wall. This is typically a 3/8
inch fitting in most homes. Take a small strip of Teflon tape and
wrap it around each of the threads. The cold water line
from your faucet goes to the cold water supply valve, which
is typically on the right in most homes. Screw on each nut by hand and tighten
it down with an adjustable wrench. Make sure you secure the
pipe for the water supply valve running into the
wall, so you don’t run the risk of damaging any connections. Many faucet styles are sold with
or without a side sprayer option. If you wish to install a separate
sprayer in a fourth outside hole, you’ll need to purchase a
faucet that has that feature. With the rubber gasket
placed onto the shank, insert the sprayer hose guide
into the fourth outside hole. From below, you’ll screw the
connecting nut onto the shank and up against the
underside of the countertop. You may need to have someone hold it
from above as you tighten it down. You’ll next need to feed the sprayer
hose down through the hose guide. One end of the hose should already
be attached to the sprayer head. Under the sink, connect the other end
of the hose to the faucet’s diverter. This is the valve on the
underside of the spout assembly. Many connections will just
snap or slide into place. This faucet has a quick connect feature
that attaches the end of the hose to the diverter. Your sprayer may attach
differently, so consult your owner’s manual for complete instructions. With the water supply lines
connected, turn the water back on at the hot and cold valves. Test out the operation of
your faucet and sprayer. Then, carefully check to
make sure there are no leaks. If you detect a slight
drip, use a wrench to tighten the connections until the
leak stops, but do not over tighten. If you’re still having difficulty, then
turn off the water, unscrew the nut, and add another layer of
Teflon tape to the threads. Reattach the supply line, tighten
it down, and turn the water back on. Make sure your connections are
leak free before proceeding. Once you’ve installed
your new faucet, it’s a good idea to flush it out
to remove any debris that may have accumulated in the lines. Unscrew the aerator from
the shaft of the faucet. There may be a tool for this
that comes with your faucet, or you may be able to do it by hand. With the aerator removed,
turn the handle on full blast, and let it run for about a minute. Then, shut off the water
and replace the aerator. Regular cleaning and
maintenance of your faucet will help give you worry
free use for years to come.