Hey this is another video by Pet Rock. Today
I’m going to be working on, it’s a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2. I have no idea what the motor
is. Something, I don’t know, 2.0 I think. Something, I don’t know, 2.0 Liter. Anyway,
so I just got done replacing the wheel bearing and hub, on a, in another video. And now I’m
going to service the brake caliper because the brake calipers are missing some parts.
There is supposed to be a spring in here and yeah. And its also sticking. The caliper is
not sliding like it is supposed to. Anyway, so I’m going to take it apart a little bit,
lube it up and put it back together again. So first things first. Remove the two bolts
on the back of the caliper. They are 14mm. Make sure you keep track of which bolt goes
where. I don’t know if you can tell from this angle but I have the heads of the bolts lined
up right now. The one on the right, this one came from the bottom the one of the left came
from the top. They are different lengths. So you need to make, keep not of that when
you are putting things back together again. Ok, so I’m going to first I’m going to remove
the brake pads. And they are held in by these pins right here. Just slide the retaining
pins out. And remove the brake pads. So these actually don’t look too bad. So next we want
to remove these little pins here. Just push them through. This one looks to be seized.
Which may be why this caliper doesn’t work too well. Notice I’m pushing on it pretty
hard and it’s barely moving. I’m literally putting my entire body weight on it and it
is not coming out. Ok after a bunch of banging I finally got this slide pin out. And if you
look close, its all pitted and rusted and the inside bore here has got a little bit
of pitting as well. This thing just did not want to come out. This car was missing some
brake hardware and I don’t know where it went or how it got lost or what happened to it.
It just didn’t come with this car. So I managed to pick up all the new parts from various
auto parts stores because some of them had them in stock, some didn’t. I would say I
could have ordered them online but I wanted to get this job done. For example, down here
there is a slide plate that is part of the actual spindle. There is supposed to be a
little metal plate like these little guys that is supposed to go on there that the brakes
are supposed to slide upon. So that they are not sliding metal on metal and ultimately
hanging up. So I don’t know why they are missing, but they are missing. You’d think that they
would be a pretty much integral part of the brake system. Additionally, there is, I don’t
know if you noticed from the beginning of the video but there is this little M or W
or Epsilon, this little spring clip wasn’t there either. I don’t know where that one
went or why it was removed either but I got a new one. This one I picked up at AutoZone
its a full kit that includes new pins, new little clips to hold the pins on and M clips.
It’s part number H5798. The part number for the slide plates for over here, that’s H5456.
I picked that up at O’Reilly’s. Lets see. I also got. It’s Christmas today. I also got
new rubber bushings for the caliper. I got these at AutoZone. They are part number H16033.
The lastly the slide pins. I picked up a new set from O’Reilly. They were part number H5118.
If you wanted to pick them up at AutoZone the same part would be H5133. So now that
I’ve got all the parts together. I’m going to start putting things back together again.
So the first order of business is to take the caliper back off because I mounted it
because it was going to be sitting overnight. And I’m going to sand the bores for the slide
pins. So that they don’t, to get any rust that built up in them. Ok, so here is a shot
down the top bore. There is a little bit of rust. You can see it as discoloration and
if you put your finger in there you can feel it. There is a lot more in the bottom one,
you can see the texturing, then there is in the top. The bottom one has that rubber bushing
that goes all the way through it so that is probably why its all discolored in there.
So I’m not really that concerned with it. But the top one we want to get smooth because
there, that’s just metal on metal once we put the slide pins in. So we need to get that
as smooth as possible. Ok, so first I need to make a little tool to get into that bore
and drill it out. So first what I did is I took some tape on a large screw driver. The
sticky side is out. And I’m basically going to wrap a strip of Emory cloth around it.
Now the tape won’t really stick to the Emory cloth and hold it there. This is more just
like as a bit of tension to it so now I have a tool that I can slide in and out of the
bore. Just keep doing this until you get it nice and
clean and nice and smooth. So once you’ve got it as clean, up to your satisfaction.
Hit it with some brake cleaner to get any of the rust out. Or little particles of debris
that may be in there. And now its time to start setting up the, to start installing
the new rubber bushings. This new rubber sleeve. This one goes on the bottom. They are pretty
dry. And so its going to be a little difficult to get them in just straight out of the bag.
Or box. Either way. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to put, add a little bit of brake
caliper grease to it. Now what that will do is one it will make this thing slide in a
little bit easier and it will also protect this inner, this inner bore and help prevent
it from rusting. So I’m just going to put a little bit around the outer edge. Like that.
Then I’m going to put some more on the center part. And I’m also going to put some inside.
Just slather it on in there. So now that I’ve got this nice and coated, one of the benefits
of this kind of brake caliper grease as apposed to like just your general purpose, multipurpose
grease is that brake caliper grease one can withstand very very high temperatures, especially
those that are experienced in braking systems. And in addition it also has the benefit of
not degrading rubber components like chassis or multipurpose grease has. So now we’re going
to get a little bit messy and start shoving this thing down into the bore. And out it
comes the other side. There we go. So now we have new rubber on the bottom. So now you
can wipe off any excess. And now you’ll see if you rotate it around a little bit it’s
nice and free flowing. There’s no kinks. If you look down the bore, make sure there’s
no obstructions. It’s nice and smooth. Next we’ll install the new guide pin sleeves. Now
remember they are two different lengths. This one right here goes on the top where it’s
just metal on metal. And this one right here goes inside the rubber boot. So like the insertion
of the rubber boot we want to put a little bit of brake caliper grease on this new guide
pin. It’s also sometimes called a caliper stabilizer during my searching for this part.
It wasn’t that easy to find actually. Ok, you only want to coat first half or first
quarter of the new slide pin for insertion. The reason being is you want the dry side
so you can hold onto it. Otherwise this thing gets really slippery and it’s almost impossible
to get in, and you drop it on the floor like I just did. So I found the easiest way of
getting this thing in there is to prop it with your knee. Squish it down a little bit
so it can’t move. Get a small screw driver in between it and stretch it over top. Like
that. So once you’ve got it set like that you can start moving it in. Now you coat the
rest of the pin with grease. And push it in. There you go. So you want to make sure that
the rubber boots, the end of it pops into the slide pin. Once you’ve got it pressed
in you want to make sure that the, the end of the rubber goes into that little groove
on the end of the slide pin. And then you want to make sure that the opposite side dose
that too. And you do that just by kind of wiggling it in. Wiggling it into place like
that. Hopefully I didn’t cover that too much from the camera. Because I’m not doing it
again. So now to install the top bushings. If you look closely on the inside here there
is a little lip on the inside of the bore. This is to accept the corresponding lip on
the new rubber bushing. So just like on the lower part we want to lube this up nice and
good, and with some brake caliper grease. Because the, this guide pin basically is going
metal on metal you want to make sure that there is plenty of lube inside here. This
is where, this is why this caliper seized up was because this guide pin basically rusted
into this bore. So you want to make sure that it’s nice and lubed up in there. Technically
there’s, you can’t put too much because once you put the guide pin in it will push out
any excess. So to install this new bushing there is a little lip on the inside as I showed
earlier and you’ve got a little lip here. The way I’ve found it’s easiest is to put
it in at an angle, keep pressing and turning at the same time and it will seat itself.
Now that you’ve got the new bushings in, you want to make sure you lube the inside of the
bushing nice and good. On both the front and the back. Now you’re ready to slide the pin
in. Once you’ve got the top one in make sure that it slides in and out and that the bushing
slides with it. Same with the bottom. So now we’re going to bolt the caliper back up to
the spindle. So if you remember when we took it apart, you got two bolts that are different
lengths. This one’s the top, the long one, and this one’s the bottom, the short one.
This one goes in here. This one, the long one, goes up here. When we bolt this up, also
because these are going to be riding metal on metal you want to also lube up these pins.
This flat part like that. So that these will slide properly. It may seem like a little
of use of grease, but the better lubed up your caliper is the better it will perform.
These things need to float. That’s there, that’s how they work. And if they can’t float
they won’t work very well. So I got, got those in. Now put a little dab of anti-seize. The
reason for this is you don’t want this thing rusting in place. Just a little dab, like
that. Not a whole lot. Just a little bit. You don’t want those bolts rusting in on you.
They are only 14mm and there’s not a lot of meat on the heads, so you can easily strip
these heads out. If this, if these threads get stuck inside the caliper. So now just
line things up. Start them finger tight. Making sure not to cross thread them because that
would be a bad day. So once you’ve got them started then you can start moving them in
with a wrench. Now those are snugged in, make sure that the caliper can still move backwards
and forwards. Ok, so now that we’ve got the caliper mounted the next step is we have to
take this half of the caliper apart in order to get the brake pads in there and all the
other hardware. So this is held on by two 17mm bolts, one here and one here. Now you
may be lucky and be able to get a wrench on this one but in my case this brake hose is
in the way and I’m not about to loosen that banjo bolt in order to adjust the location
of the hose. So I’m going to do something that I normally shun. Actually I don’t like
doing this at all. I’m going to have to end up having to use an adjustable wrench on it
because I don’t have a 17mm open end wrench which I hate. If you have the right tool,
use the right tool. In my opinion, this is never the right tool however I’m on a time
crunch so I’ve got to get this done. I have no choice. Ok, so now I’ve got the halves
off. These bolts aren’t that big. These ones have a little bit of rust on them. You can
get these springs in there and lined up properly without doing this step. However, it’s quite
difficult and probably takes two pairs of hands to balance it. And then on top of that
with the, if you’re properly using brake caliper grease you’re going to have grease all over
the place. You don’t want to get grease on the pads so it’s just easier to take this,
take this apart. Take this extra step. And then build the pads and the caliper together
in pieces. So I’ve taken the caliper half and brought it over to my work bench. Put
it in a vise, angled it backwards a little bit to make installation a little bit easier.
It also makes it so you can see it better on the video. The way these calipers brake
pads work is you’ve got the brake pad and you’ve got these little pins that the brake
pad float on with some springs and clips to keep everything in place. First thing you
do is you take a little bit of brake, brake caliper grease and lube up one of the pins
like that. Then you take the inside, you take the, I should say the outside, outboard brake
pad. This is the one that’s facing, that’s closest to the tire. And you just put it in
place like that and slide the pin through. Now the reason you put brake, brake caliper
grease on this pin is because again the brake pads are sliding against it. So metal on metal,
you want some kind of lubricant or otherwise you can cause, it can bind up. And you can
get a seized caliper just like this one was. Anyway, so the next one you take the next
pin and lube it up too. You don’t need to get a whole ton, just enough to coat and slide
it into place like that. Next part, you take these small metal clips that come with your
hardware kit or that came stock, and you insert them into the little holes in the pin. Like
that. Now be careful with those little pins they are quite springy. If you drop one or
allow it to fly off somewhere it could be lost forever. So be careful with that. So
now I have this, this pad is locked in place. These pins are now also locked in place. So
here are the two pins. The grease is on this side of the hole. For both pins. Next comes
this little spring. I’m not really sure if it matters on if you put it this way or put
it this way but from what I understand, these little nubs here and here have to go on top.
So I’m just going to do it like that. And they hook into the little hole in the caliper,
in the brake pad right here. So now I have that one in. Now I can slide the other side,
the other brake pad into place making sure that the pin goes in the hole. Like that.
So here’s the spring, the spring. The clips on the spring are over top of the brake pad
and the, its going through the pin. You have hooks on the end of the spring going into
the holes on the brake pad. Hopefully that makes sense. So now your, this half of the
caliper is set up. Now we can go back to the car and mount this in place. Ok, so we’re
back at the car. Now we’re about to put the assembled brake pad half of the caliper back
together again, but before we do we want to take care of this surface right here. So this
is an area where the brake pad will actually ride. And that’s where these little metal
clips come into play. There you go. Anyway, so these things are just basically slide on,
just slide onto this area right there like that on both the top and the bottom like that.
Since the brake pads slide against these things you want to, because it’s metal on metal you
want to lube these up with brake caliper grease. Not a whole lot, just enough to coat. And
now we are ready to install, to put the brake caliper back together again. Just hold it
up like this. You can two holes. A hole here and a hole there that these two pins slide
into. So maneuver it into place like that. Get your new bolts, but a little bit of anti-seize
on them, thread them into place by hand. You don’t want to cross thread these. It will
make your life miserable. Ok, so it’s all back together again. So I did notice that
this spring right here has given way a little bit. It’s not on top, on top of the brake
pad like it should be. And then make sure that the brake pad itself is against piston.
So we’re almost done. The astute viewer will notice that I don’t have the rotor on. This
is actually on purpose. The reason being is that it’s easier to wrestle all this stuff
in, especially with the springs and the brake pads and everything going in without having
to also fight the rotor. So what I do is, I’m going to unbolt the back of the rotor,
back of the caliper I should say, remove the caliper from the spindle put the rotor on
and then put it back on again. That’s much easier doing that, just unbolting those things
real quickly then it is to fight this spring and fight all this other stuff getting it
all back together again. Ok, so I have the caliper off, rotor on. Held, the rotor is
held on with a couple lug nuts to make sure it’s not wobbling around and then slide the
caliper into place. There you go. Now take the bolts that are still lubed from when you
installed them earlier and start them by hand like before. And do them both. So once you’ve
got it snugged down you tighten these two bolts down to between 29 and 36 ft/lbs. So
33, 34 ft/lbs and we’re done. So now you have a caliper that can slide back and forth. So
as with any brake job, before you take it for a drive. Make sure that you pump the brakes
a bunch of times until they get firm and then start driving. The first time you press the
brakes your foot is likely to just go to the floor especially if you compressed the piston
during this operation. So that’s it. I hope this video helped you out. If you have any
questions, comments just leave them in the comment section below. I will answer, I will
answer any that are received. If you liked this video please click like. Subscribe if
you want to see more videos. I’ve got more of them coming along as my stuff breaks and
my friends stuff breaks I will make a video of it. So anyway, click subscribe and thanks
a lot for watching.