“Hi, it’s Steve. Today we’d like to show you how to change
the damper assembly on your refrigerator. The damper is used to divert air from the
freezer into the fresh food compartment. This particular model uses a fan, and depending
on the condition of the fresh food compartment, will divert a certain amount of air down to
the lower compartment, and a certain amount to the upper part of the fresh food compartment. It’s a fairly easy repair. Let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we will need to disconnect
power to the refrigerator. Simply unplug it. We’ll also want to remove all the items that
are on these shelves, and then the shelves themselves. This particular model, that’s a little stop
on the right-hand side of the shelves, it needs to be depressed, and then you can pull
the shelves completely out, and we’ll just set those aside for now. With all the shelving out of the way, we now
have access to remove the components that we need to get at the damper assembly. If your model looks like this, with the long
air channel down the back, you’ll also need to remove this light cover, and you’ll also
need to remove this shelf, and the deli drawer. We’ll begin by pulling the knob off of that
control. Just grasp it and pull it off. Then you can lift that light cover off of
the two hooks at the back, and we’ll set that aside. Then simply pull the meat drawer out. Lift up on the shelf at the front. Pull it forward to disengage it at the back,
and we’ll set that aside as well. Our next step will be to remove this center
duct. It’s held in place with just some plastic
tabs on the side. To remove it, we’re just going to squeeze
and pull it forward to release those tabs. Once we have it lose at the bottom, pressing
on the top and remove it. Our next step will be to remove the light
cover. In this model, there is a plastic headed screw
at the very back that will need to come out first. If your model does not have that, it would
just be some plastic tabs. One on either side at the back, and one at
the front. For this one, we need to remove that screw,
and you may need needle nose pliers to grasp the end of that at first. Once you get it turning, it should come out
by hand. Once we have that screw out, we’ll set that
aside. On this model, there are two tabs on either
side, so we’ll need to pull that cover straight towards us. Now we’ll remove it, and then we can set it
aside. With the light cover removed, we’re next going
to remove these four screws that go into the ceiling. In this model, there are Phillips heads screw. Just support that assembly as you remove the
last screw, and lower it down. That will give you access to the wire harness
connector. We’re simply going to depress those two locking
tabs. That will release the connector, and as well,
we’ll need to take the ground wire clip off the heat shield. Just pull that off, and then we’ll set that
assembly aside. Next we need to remove the cover for the water
filter niches. There’s a couple of plastic tabs, one at the
top, one in the bottom here. Just push those away from the damper assembly
to release them. Slide that cover out, and set it aside. Next we need to remove the remaining four
screws that secure that damper assembly to the back wall and to the ceiling. Again, there are Phillips heads screws. Again, we’ll support that damper assembly
as we remove the final screw. Just as it lower it down a bit and pull it
to the right. We’ll tilt it forward to expose the wire harness
connector. Then we just need to release those two tabs
and disconnect the harness. Just grasp those two locking tabs. You can then discard the old damper assembly. If your model has the spout attached to the
side wall, just inspect it to make sure that the gasket is in good shape. If it’s not or if it’s damaged, you simply
just hold that out of the opening. There are a couple of plastic tabs that hold
it in place, and you can discard it, and you can replace it with the new one. If your old one was in good shape, you could
have just discarded it back. We’ll snap the new one into place. Make sure that the locking tabs engage. If your model did not use one of those spouts,
we’d remove this gasket on the new damper assembly, and replace it with the thicker
one that came with the kit. To install our new damper, we’ll begin by
connecting the wire harness. Make sure the locking tabs engage. When installing the new damper, I’m going
to take that harness and just make sure that we’ve tuck it inside of the housing, and pivot
it upright, and then engage the air inlet on the left-hand side. Just make sure that we fit that nozzle inside
the gasket, and then rotate it into position. Once we have it firmly in place on the left
side, we can then install mounting screws. Just continue to put the mounting screws back
in. We won’t tighten those until we have all of
them in position, and then tighten them all securely. Next we’ll put the cover back over the water
filter. You’ll note the little U-shaped notch on the
right-hand side, and that’s going to slide over that grommet mounted on the wall. Make sure we engage that first. Then just pop the tabs in at the back. Next we’ll put the light assembly back in. We’ll begin by reattaching that ground clamp. You may need to squeeze those tabs together
and slide it on the edge of the heat shield. Make sure it’s on nice and firm, and then
reconnect the harness. When reinstalling that light assembly, we
need to engage these two plastic tabs, and these slotted openings in the damper housing. First, we want to make sure that we tucked
the harness in behind those tabs, and out of the way, and then press it into place. We can now reinstall the mounting screws. Make sure all four screws are tightened securely. We’ll reinstall the light cover, we need to
make sure that we line up these two tabs at the back with those two little slotted openings,
so press it, tight to the ceiling, put it straight back, and then we will reinstall
that plastic screw. We will keep that opening, then we put the
screw in place. It is not necessary to tighten it all the
way. Just leave it far enough so that you can access
it in case you have to change the bulb at some point. We can go ahead and put our rear air duct
in place. When reinstalling the air duct cover, just
make that these three tabs across the top sit into those three slotter openings, and
that the two on the bottom fit into the long slots on the air outlet duct. Center up this shaft for the control through
that slotted opening. Raise it to the right height, and snap it
in place. Next we’ll put the light cover back in place. Again, we want to put this little U-shaped
heads over those studs on the rear wall. When it’s properly positioned, it will be
below this slotted openings on the side, and then you will be able to see air duct opening
across the top. Next, we’ll install the nob, and there is
a little notch in that nob that we’ll line up with a spine on that shaft. You snap it into place, and then we can put
that shelve and deli drawer back into position. Now we can put the shelve back in for that
deli drawer. Lift it up in front, line up the notches at
the back. Make sure you engage all those studs on the
side wall. Then place the drawer, and the remainder of
the shelving. We are now ready to reload the refrigerator. We can plug the power back in, and our repair
is complete.”