Hi, it’s Steve. Today we’re going to show you how to change
the heater assembly on your dryer, and it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a quarter inch
nut driver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a number two Phillips screwdriver and maybe
a pair of needle-nose pliers. Let me show you how we do it. Now, before we begin this repair, the first
thing we’ll need to do is to disconnect power to the dryer. So if it has a cord on it, simply unplug it. I it’s a hardwired dryer, you’ll need to locate
the fuse or breaker panel and turn the power off there. Once we’ve done that, we can next pull the
dryer far enough forward where can access two screws at the top that secure the main
top to the cabinet. We’ll start by taking those out and just lift
up slightly on the back of the top, pull it straight back and lift it off. Now, next we will want to remove the lower
access panel. Again, there are two screws that secure that
to the cabinet. Just locate those, one on either side, and
just tilt it slightly on the bottom of that panel, and let it drop down. We can set that aside. Next, we’ll remove two screws that secure
the bottom of the front panel. Now, to disconnected that harness, you will
need to lift up on that end of it to release the locking tab on both sides. Also need to release this clip that holds
the harness to the air inlet assembly. Take a flat-blade screwdriver and just put
it under the front edge of that, pry it open, and release the harness. Next we’ll open the dryer door and we’ll remove
two Philip screws on either side of the lint filter, and then we can close that door up. Next, we’ll need to remove the control panel. If we look in behind it, we’ll see two locking
tabs, one on either side. So with our flat-blade screwdriver, we’re
just going to slightly depress those to the outside while pulling out on the bottom of
that control panel. Once we’ve released the two outside ones,
there are also three tabs across the top. We can just lift up on the control panel enough
to clear those. If you need to use your flat-blade screwdriver
just to assist that. Once we’ve released those tabs, we can lift
that control panel up and just lay it across the top. If you wish, reach in and disconnect the harness
that attaches to the control board. Simply depress the locking tab a little bit,
slide the harness connector off the end of the board, and pull it up through. Then we can set that aside. Next, we’ll remove the two remaining screws
that secure the front panel to the cabinet. You’ll need to support that front panel as
you remove the last of the screws, then lift it off and set it aside. Next, we’ll disconnect the harness to the
sensors. Again, we’ll use a flat-blade screwdriver,
just carefully go under the edge of that locking tab to spread that enough to clear it on both
sides. Then we’re going to remove two screws that
secure the air inlet to the blower housing. They are typically brass colored screws. The one in the eleven o’clock position and
typically one done in about the five o’clock position. Remove both of those, then we’ll remove the
two bottom screws on that front bulkhead and then will loosen the two top ones because
they have keyhole slots that hold that bulkhead to the cabinet. Just loosen it three or four turns. We’re going to lift up on that whole assembly
so that we can clear the lower portion of that in that assembly and just pull it out
enough to clear those two keyhole slots on the top. Now, we’ll try to stay engaged to the drum
with the front drum rollers, but if you tilt out on it, it will drop right out. We’ll set that aside. Now, next we’ll need to disconnect the belt
from the motor pulley and the idler pulley. We’ll reach one hand in around the center,
one over top of the blower housing, can you feel the belt? You’ll see how it wraps around the idler pulley. So grasp the idler pulley, pull it to the
left to release the tension, slide the belt off to the back, and carefully set the idler
pulley down. Now, next we’ll remove this front cross piece
that secures the top of the cabinet. There are two screws in the front as well
as two more across the top. Now, you may also wish to remove this single
screw that secures the mounting bracket for the control board. Now, with that screw removed, you just support
that bracket and then let it sit down on the drum, remove this support piece on the front
and set it aside. Now, next take the belt and make sure it’s
not hooked on the idler pulley below. You should have about this much slack on the
top. So we just use that belt to lift up on the
drum and then pull it slightly forward, bring it out through the opening at the problem
the cabinet, support that mounting bracket, and then lift the drum clear and set it aside. Now, to replace the heating element, I’m going
to start by removing the two wire terminals at the front. So I’ll take a pair of needle-nose pliers
and just pry those off and grasp the terminal, not the wire. We’ll also inspect those terminals, and if
there is any signs or arcing or corrosion, they will need to be replaced. Now, next, using our quarter inch nut screwdriver,
we’ll remove the screws that secure the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut out to the
side of the housing, and then we’ll remove four screws that secure the top portion of
that housing to the bottom. Then we’ll lift up at the front edge of this
housing and then just rock it back and forth while we’re holding it up to remove it from
the outlet at the back. If you dislodge the spring clip, you’ll need
to reinsert that into the top portion of that housing to the little locking tab engages
in that rectangular slot, and the rounded tab is pointing upwards. Now, that removed, we can lift the old element
out of the housing and discard it. Inspect the new element before we put it in
position, make sure that none of the isolators are cracked or broken. Set it in position taking note of the little
locating tabs in the middle that will fit into the rectangular slots. Make sure that lines up. Again, we’re going to insert that tab into
the upper half of that rear opening, and then carefully press two halves of that housing
together. We’ll reinstall the retaining screws and we’ll
reinstall the limiter and the thermostat, and tighten those screws securely and reconnect
the two larger terminals to the ends of the element, make sure they’re nice and secure. We’re now ready to put the drum and the belt
back in. Now, you won’t be able to see the idler pulley
and motor pulley when you’re reinstalling the belt, so I’ll give you a visual of how
that will look when it’s on there. That will just drape loosely with the drum
in place. I’m going to pull it over top of the motor
pulley, down underneath the idler. To do that, we’d have to pull that idler pulley
to the left, and it will end up in this position. Now, when reinstalling the drum, we’re going
to begin by wrapping the belt around the drum and we’ll have the ribbed side of the belt
facing the drum. I’m going to lift it up into position and
we’re going to want to make sure that we engage the rear drum rollers. When they’re properly engaged, the drum will
actually sit flush with the back bulkhead and rotate easily. Next, we’ll install the front bulkhead. When installing that, we’re going to begin
by making sure that we have the cover for the blower housing, insert it into the opening
first, then we’ll lift up on the drum so that we can tuck those front rollers underneath
the edge of the drum. Once we have that positioned properly, we
can rotate the front after we engage those keyhole slots, and that should sit flush. We’ll start by tightening those two screws
at the top and install the two at the bottom. Once we have those tight, we’ll line up those
two brass or gold colored screws and secure the inlet duct assembly to the blower housing. Then we’ll reconnect the harness to the sensors,
making sure that they’re fully pushed together and that the locking tabs are engaged. Now, with that done, we’ll next reconnect
the belt to the motor pulley and the idler pulley. One hand in through on the right hand side,
one in on the left, find the belt. It should have the rib side facing up. Take all the idler pulley and rotate it to
the left. Wrap the belt that comes down on the left
side of that drum over the top of the idler pulley, off of the bottom of it back to the
left and over to the top of the motor pulley, off the motor pulley on the bottom and over
to the right. Just rotate that around a couple of times. There should be a bit of resistance. Now we can put the front support on. Position that across the top of the cabinet,
install the two screws down through the top, and then the two screws through the front,
then put the control panel bracket back into position. Next, we will install the front panel. Now, with the support piece across the top
in place, we can next put the front panel on. We’ll lift it up into position, support from
the bottom. Line it up so that the screw holes on each
side at the top line up. Just start one of those by hand, the opposite
side, and then we can go ahead and tighten those. Just before you snug them up, just lift up
on that whole housing and tighten them that way. Then install the two screws on the bottom. Then we’ll reconnect the door switch harness. Line up the harness ends, press them firmly
together so that the locking tabs engage. Then we’ll need to fit that harness into that
little retaining clip and make sure the wires lay flat in there. Press that clip until it snaps together. We’ll go ahead and put the lower access panel
on. Now, when installing that lower access panel,
just make sure that this lip fits in underneath the edge of the front panel. Hold it up in position, and then install the
two retaining screws, and we’ll want to tighten those securely, we don’t have any rattles. Then next we’ll replace the two screws that
secure the front panel to the bulkhead, and now we can go ahead and put the control panel
on. We’ll start by fitting the harness through
that rectangular open in the support bracket. Then we’re going to engage the three tabs
across the top that fit into this plastic piece. There’s also a tab on the bottom that will
fit into that rectangular opening in that metal support bracket. We need to engage the top ones first
and just pivoted it down into position, and that will push the two side ones through. Make sure both of those engage, and reconnect
the harness to the control board. Make sure to insert it all the way that the
locking tab engages. We’re now ready to put the main top on. Well, line that up side to side, we’ll set
it in about a half or three-quarter of an inch back from the control panel, and slide
it forward so that both sides engage, and it should lay flat. Then we’ll install the two screws at the back. We’re now ready to reconnect the power, and
our repair is complete.