Hello. John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I’m going to show you how to change out the chain and sprockets on our 2008 Honda
CBR 600RR. Not really that difficult of a process. The only trick is I’m going with
an OEM chain. It actually has what they call a staking procedure instead of a clip.
It’s more secure, and that’s the one I really want to go with.
We’re also going to take a peak at the chain guide. It actually goes over the front of
your swing arm and protects it. You want to make sure that that’s in good
shape. So, let me get these couple of pieces out
of the way and we’ll get out the grinding wheel and I’ll show you how to get it cut
off. Alright guys, let’s go over some of the tools
we’re going to need to get this little job accomplished.
The only special tool that you’re going to need is for the chain. This actually breaks
and also stakes the chain after it’s been put together.I hardly ever use it to actually
break the chain apart. I prefer just to use an angle grinder just to grind off the rivets
and then push them out. Beyond that, pretty minimal tools. Need a
3/4 to actually operate this particular chain tool. Then you’ll need a 10 and a 12mm just
open end wrenches. As far as sockets, you’ll need an 8, a 10, a 12, and a 17. I’m actually
going to be using an impact drive that’s not absolutely necessary. It just makes life a
little bit– go through a little bit faster when you’re trying to do disassembly.
Beyond that you’ll need a torque wrench. I actually use two of them. I use the bigger
one to torque down the actual axle nut because that’s all the way up to 83 pounds. The smaller
settings– I think we’re down around the 30 foot-pound range. So if you’ve got a wrench
that will go from let’s say 20 to 100, you’re covered in this particular instance.
Beyond that you just need a breaker bar with a 32 mm to get that axle bolt broken loose
and that’s really about all you’re going to need.
Alright guys, before we get started, in a previous video I showed you how to adjust
this chain and we actually noticed that it was pretty much game over for this particular
chain. You can see that it was all the way under the replace line right there. So we’re
going to go ahead and get it cut off. You can’t see it very well right now, but
once I get the sprocket off and compare each tooth to the new one, you’re going to see
this really needed to be replaced. Also, keep in mind: don’t just replace your
chain only because when the chain wears, the sprocket wears, and when you put something
new with something old they typically don’t mesh well together too well.
So, what I’m going to use to take it off is just a shop grinder. They make a tool to actually,
you know, cut this off and then push it through, but this is a lot easier to me.
So let’s go ahead and get it cut off. Alright, with those flattened out, you take
a regular screwdriver and off she goes. With that outer plate off, you can go ahead
and push the link through. Pretty easy. Alright, with the chain cut off, let’s go
ahead and get that axle nut broken loose and get that axle out of the way. this is actually
a 32mm. Just do an initial inspection of our chain
guide that goes around our swing arm. That looks to be in really good shape, so we’re
not going to need to replace that. Alright, to get to our front sprocket only
a couple of things need to happen. Those two 8mm bolts that actually hold on this little
plastic cover. but to get that cover out, we’re going to need to move the shift linkage,
and it has one little small dot right there and that’s where it needs to be realigned
when we go to reinstall it. I usually mark it just with a sharpie just to be sure before
I take it apart. And just lay that out of the way.
And there she comes. What I’m going to do is I’m going to use an
impact wrench to actually remove this bolt. Its torque spec is 40 foot-pounds. But when
we go to put it back on we’ll just put it back on hand-tight, get the chain on, and
that way the actual tire and the chain will be holding it still because you wouldn’t want
to put that kind of strain on the transmission. Alright, next let’s go ahead and remove the
rear sprocket. These are 17mm. I’m going to cheat and use the impact to take it off.
And don’t lose all your washers. Well the sprocket’s off, and boy you can really
tell– feel more or less how these things are worn. If you line them up side-by-side
you can feel the edges where the metal’s been taken away or worn or bent on the old one.
Now, let’s start putting it back together with our new stuff.
First thing we need to do is go ahead and get the rear sprocket back on. these only
go on one way. What you want to look for is that little stamping of 42 teeth and that
represents the number of teeth on this particular sprocket. and you want this edge facing out
where the backside is smooth. And the torque on these is 47 foot-pounds.
Let’s go ahead and get our front sprocket on. and we want the markings right here for
the 16T, we want this facing out. Like I said we’re going to put this on just
hand-tight for right now. we’ll torque it down when we actually get the chain put on.
Alright, we’re going to go ahead and get our axle prepped so we can go ahead and reinstall
that rear tire and get it cleaned up and regreased. Not that it’s spinning on the surface or anything,
I just don’t want it to rust and then lock in on those bearings.
Be careful when you’re putting the brake caliper back on. You may need to go in here and compress
the piston so you’ve got enough clearance to wiggle it in there because this section
actually has to go up inside the frame to keep it from rotating.
Alright, as you can see I’m using a couple of two by fours to keep the tire up because
this is an awful lot to try to keep aligned. That gets us pretty close to where we need
to be. We’re just going to try to put this on there hand-tight.
So what we’re going to do is move this adjuster just to get that bolt broken loose and then
screw it back in because we want that pointer which was here to end up in this new area.
Of course you need to do that on both sides. Alright, that should be a pretty good starting
point. Before we cut the chain I just wanted to point
out something to you. I went ahead and counted out the 112 links we’re going to need for
this and that’s going to end up with the chain being cut right here on this mark.
And just for fun I laid it up against our old chain. Look how much that has stretched.
That’s got to be an inch and a quarter, thereabouts, maybe an inch and a half. So yeah, that chain
was pretty much done. So, let’s get this over to the vice, get these
two points grinded off, and then we can actually get it installed on the machine.
So let’s go over to the teardown bench. Alright, so let’s get this link or these links
taken out. I’m using the vice over on our teardown bench just to hold the chain in place.
You can do this on the bike or just having it laying on the table, but this just makes
it a lot more secure because believe me: you don’t want to have the end of that cutoff
wheel going into your finger. It only takes a split second to open you up.
Alright, let’s pry that outer plate off. Alright, so let’s get that chain routed through
there. With an O-ring chain, it’s fairly stiff, so
that can be a good and bad thing as you’re feeding it through here.
Alright, let’s go ahead and get that master link put together.
It ships with four O-rings. You’ve got to get the two on the backside and the two on
the front. The tool I’m going to be using is actually
made by Honda, and the first thing we have to do is actually get the plate pushed on
there and compressed all the way in. And at that point, we’ll reconfigure the tool and
get both of those points staked. Alright, we’ve got our front and back plates
on there and then the tool set up. Make sure she’s aligned right and we’ll go ahead and
press that outer link on. That should be it.
Alright, remove your backing plates, get those out of the way.
And the way you want to set up your tool is you want to use this little backing pi. It
goes there. And we put our flare. And we’re going to do one rivet at a time.
That backing pin keeps you from just pushing the pin through. Don’t want to try to do it
without it. With our chain in place, let’s go ahead and
get that front sprocket torqued down. We want 40 foot-pounds.
And that’ll do it. Alright let’s go ahead and get our cover back
in position. And now let’s go ahead and get the shift linkage
back on there. It’ll have a little indention right there. Remember I marked it as well
just to make it easier to see. Alright guys, the only thing left now is just
to adjust the chain as far as the tension on it. If you would just reference our video
that shows you exactly how to do that. Listen, if you need any of the parts or the
chain sprockets or anything that I used during this procedure, why don’t you find us at partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of. If there’s something I did that didn’t make sense to
you or you need a clarification on, just leave it in the comments section below and I’ll
do my best to answer it. Until next time we just want to say thanks
for watching.