– Welcome back to the GCN Tech Clinic with the idea behind it to help answer and solve your technical bike problems that you may have come up with, so let’s crack on with the
first question this week, and it’s from Darek Kong who says they have some Dura-Ace C24 wheels which have quite narrow
rims, so they’ve got a 15 millimeter internal
width, and a 20.8 external. They are thinking of getting some wider aluminum Hunt Race Aero wheels which are 18 millimeters internal and 23 millimeters external for when not using the Sunday best. What issues do I foresee in
swapping between the two sets? Right, well, Darek, well, both sets of those are really nice pairs of wheels. Now certainly, those wider
wheels basically are more in trend at the moment for two reasons, for comfort as well as
for speed or aerodynamics, so as for any problems that
you may well encounter, well, possibly, and depending on how much clearance you’ve
got with your forks and your brake calipers,
you may have some rubbing. However, unless they’re
very, very tight clearances at the moment, you should be okay, but do check in,
actually, with Hunt to see what they recommend ’cause
they’re likely to know a lot more about the compatibility than
I will, I’m afraid on that. Now, those wider wheels
will actually work better with 25 or 28 millimeter tires, which again, tend to be the more in vogue or certainly aerodynamic
and comfortable use tires at the moment, so,
yeah, you should be able to use both of those. What you may need to do though,
’cause I actually have this on a couple of pairs of my wheels that some of the wheels have
a wider rim than the others. You just turn the barrel adjuster off the brake caliper itself to just take up any differences. Next up is a question
from NZLKevin88 who says when a spoke breaks at the nipple, the nipple ends up inside the rim. How do I get it out? I have tubeless tape and don’t
want to remove all of it. What a nightmare. You’ve broken a spoke, and that
nipple is inside of the rim. Right, let’s look at
the bigger picture here. I suppose you could remove your tire and slowly rotate the actual rim and hope that the nipple
falls out of the valve hole and you can insert one back in and rotate that rim and
then it falls back inside of the hole in the rim
for the spoke nipple. However, that is not gonna work. Certainly, it’s not gonna work without taking a lot of time and patience, possibly involving magnets and all sorts of things like that. So if I were you, Kevin, I would actually bite the bullet here and remove the tubeless tape and just put one of
those spoke nipples in. The simple and conventional way. Now we’ve got a cable
problem from Pen2paw who says they lost the Tiagra rear
derailleur cable anchor assembly. Can they use either a Dura-Ace or Ultegra cable anchor
assembly for the replacement? Right, now you should,
from memory, be able to use the same assembly
from a Dura-Ace 9000 or Ultegra 6800 rear derailleurs because they use the same
style of clamp assembly. However, with the latest
of the R8000 and the 9100 from Dura-Ace, I am not that sure because they do actually have the
cable route slightly different from those older and previous generations. This really is where
you’re best off going down to a local bike shop and having a rummage around in a little parts box and see basically what
they’ve got down there, so likely they’ll have a nut,
a washer, and a bolt assembly that will do the job in
exchange for probably a packet of chocolate biscuits
or something like that. Next up, a question from
David Chapman who says Hi Jon, great vlog. Not sure it’s a vlog,
David, but thank you anyway. Can you use a 10 speed chainset
with an 11 speed chain? Right, so let’s remember
then that the cog spacing on a cassette of 11 speed
cassette is slightly narrower than that of a 10 speed cassette, and then if we go forward to the chainset, the spacing generally
between each chainring is slightly wider on most chainsets. However, the chain rings
remain largely the same width as a 10 speed, so yeah, you can use an 11 speed chain on a 10 speed chainset. I do it myself, works absolutely fine. Now we have a question
from Tomi Saaranen who says hi Jon, my entry level road road bike has a three speed front shifter
with two rings up front. When I shift to the bigger ring, I have to press the lever twice for it to shift or the other way around. Can I just get a new two speed shifter and get rid of the annoying problem? Right, Tomi, good to hear from you. Now, I’m going to assume that
you’re using Shimano here, and that, basically, that click
is meant to be there, why? Well it’s to get rid
of the annoying problem you may get or you may
associate with chain rub, so basically, by having that extra click, you just move over the
front railleur a little bit before the next click
puts it onto the big ring and then again, if you
were to be cross chaining, so the big chain ring and the
biggest bracket in the rim, so the one with the most teeth, that would give you an annoying sound too. So a little press of that inner lever would then eradicate that chain rub. Next press would get it down
onto the small chainring. So I think that could
well be your problem. If it is an actual, a triple
chainset specific lever you’ve got there, then yeah, you can actually buy a double
chainset lever, shift lever. And Matt Baldwater wants to know, they are usually irritate
by the newbie questions, but whoa, they think they
have a newbie question. Will a Shimano road shifter or brake lever for a triple chainring
crankset work on a 105 or Ultegra double chainset assuming that the limit screws are set
on the derailleur properly. Thanks in advance. Right, Matt, well no question
is a newbie question really because everybody has to start somewhere. Now, the good news is you can do this although it’s not something
I would strictly recommend, so the way in which I would do it would be to use the middle position
of that left hand shifter for the inner chainring,
and then obviously, the furthest setting’s gonna
be for the outer chainring. Now the risk you are going
to run into with this is that the lever mechanisms
can jam up with that because obviously you’re asking the levers to do something it’s not designed for. Personally, I would probably have a look around on the second-hand market and see if you can find yourself one of those odd levers
because when people crash, they tend to sell the one
lever that’s not been damaged, so just have a little look
around for that instead. Alright, now Patrick wants to
know what could be the reason for a quite loud, rattling chain noise whilst riding in the big
ring, a 50 tooth in the front and the 13, 14, 16, and 18
tooth sprockets in the rear? The noise appears to come from
the chainring, Ultegra 8000. Adjustments is fine, and there’s no scratching
there whatsoever. Could it simply be the sound of the chain hitting the chainring? Right, Patrick, really good question here because I don’t like a rattle on a bike. First thing I would do is get the bike in a workstand or lifted
off of the ground. That way you can slowly
turn around your cranks and actually listen carefully for where that noise is coming from as well as visually inspecting
it at the same time. Now, it could well be that
your chain isn’t compatible, so maybe you’ve changed
it for something else. Now, most chains, believe
me, they do work fine although they can be quite noisy, and also, interestingly enough, I have found that some
of the latest generations of Shimano group sets have
given a little bit more noise than the earlier ones, so
just bear that in mind too. Finally, go out for a little ride, but this time, not with
your cycling shoes. Just use a normal pair of shoes and have a little ride along
and see if that affects it, because it could well be a cleat which is giving a noise
only at certain cadence. Bikes are weird and wonderful things that sometimes these
little noises we have, we don’t know where they’re coming from and it could be the
strangest place of all, so yeah, just really get
the bike off the ground and have a good close look
exactly what’s going on, and make sure as well that your jockey wheels are not rubbing anywhere near the cassette too. Now, Bogdan Voineag, they say
they’ve got a cable question. They bought some cables
from a huge online name, and after changing the cables noticed it feels like the lever doesn’t feel that slick as before when shifting. Feels like it’s holding some resistance when pulling the lever, although it shifts pretty much perfect. It kinda annoys me. Right, I can sympathize with
you on that one, Bogdan, because when something’s not
right, it’s just not right, so, firstly, check the actual outer cables and where they’re going to
be either the components or the ferrules, make sure
they’re nice and snug in there and that there’s no sort of
free movement there whatsoever. Also, go under the hood, literally. So under the bath tape and actually check to make sure that those
cables are fully inserted into the actual gear
shifters or brake shifters, and make sure that again, that they’re not moving around in there. Sometimes that can give
you quite poor shifting and braking, and now, something else which can happen is if
you’ve cut the cable and it’s not a really smooth, clean cut, it’s at the inner coil of cable or the spiral bound can actually overlap where your cable is
gonna go and that can rub and give you not quite that
good shifting or braking, so get yourself the end
of a ballpoint biro, put it in there, and
just enlarge that hole, and hopefully, we’re gonna
solve that problem for you. Good luck with that one, Bogdan. Next up is from Frank Albertz, who asks, hi Jon, I am planning on painting my bike and a gold chain would fit the style. The problem is I have an eight speed, and gold chains start at nine speed. Is it still possible to
use on an eight speed bike? Right, everybody loves a
gold chain, don’t they? I think. – I’m not entirely sure what
I think about gold chains, but apart from that – Anyway, so, let’s
actually recap on this. Eight and nine speed
cassettes brackets are the same thickness, so the same width, and then eight and nine speed chains have the same internal width. That’s one another, so its internal length are exactly the same
width, so can you tell where I’m going with this one Frank? It’s gonna work. You can have yourself one of
those nine speed gold chains on your eight speed transmission. And I’ll tell you what,
you need to take a picture of that bike when it’s
been finished sprayed and you got that gold chain on, send it in and maybe, just maybe, you’ll get super nice in the bike vault. Daniel Lopez, they won a pair of Dura-Ace brake shoe
sets, so the BR-9000. Can they put them on their
Tiagra 4600 rim brakes? Will they match? Right, Daniel, if it’s a
complete set of brakes there, so that’s the actual brake
pad, the shoes, or the bolts, and everything like that,
then yes, they will go on. If it’s not, if it’s just the actual, rubber inserts themselves
and they won’t work with the 4600 Tiagra brake
blocks because from memory, those 4600 brake blocks are
actually just a one-piece bit of rubber with a nut kind
of molded internally into it which is bolted onto your calipers. However, those BR-9000
pads are gonna give you much better braking than the 4600 ones. So if it’s just the pads, you
can actually find the shoes for relatively cheap, and actually make that little upgrade for better braking. Right, I hope that you’ve
enjoyed this week’s Tech Clinic, and I’ve been able to
help answer your problem. If I’ve not, then make sure
you leave it down there in the comment section down below, and hopefully, I’ll be
able to get around to it and answer it in a forthcoming episode. Now do remember as well to like and share this video with your friends, particularly if they’ve
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