(GCN Tech Jingle) – Back again with another
episode of the GCN Tech Clinic where you submit your
bike riding problems, questions and queries down
there in the comments section and I do my very best to help answer them so you can go out riding your bike and enjoying yourself as soon as possible. So if you’ve got a problem leave it down there in
the comments section. Anyway, let’s crack on with
the first question this week and it comes in from
Seppe Durnez who says, “Dear Jon, if I would buy
myself a carbon wheel set, do I need another method
for changing my inner tubes or is it the same as my alloy wheels?” Right then Seppe, exactly the same method as you would use on normal wheels, but something to consider if
you’re using metal tire levers or the really old fashioned method of using some old spoons
underneath the tire bead to get them off, don’t do that because it could in fact
score a carbon fiber rim. Instead use some plastic levers. Method exactly the same
though, nothing special, there’s no wizardry
involved with that, however, a little bit of a tip here,
would I would advise is to always use talcum powder
inside inside of the tire, so put some in there, don’t be shy, but also go overboard with it. So put a couple of shakes in there and then simply rotate
the tire around, you know, while it’s mounted onto the
rim just to fully cover it and then it’s gonna make
fitting an inner tube just a little bit easier and
when it comes to removing it a little bit easier too. Next question comes in from
Techno Ciclista who asks me, have I come across any wheel bags that would be suitable for
checking in on a flight. Techno has done some looking around so far but with no success, found
one but it seems discontinued. Oh, good question because some
baggage handlers out there they can be a little bit rough can’t they and others can be absolute angels. However, that one you say is discontinued, I wonder if it’s from the
same company I’m thinking of that was B and W, not BMW, B and W. I think it was a German company. They used to make a rigid wheel box. Absolutely great, just
like a rigid bike box, but well, smaller and for your wheels. Can’t find it anymore though. So if anyone does know
of a rigid one out there, let me know in the comments section. Personally I’d be tempted
to chose a cardboard box, so something that a brand new
pair of wheels would come in, rather than a soft bag because a soft bag is really gonna get, well
open to being battered around, so cardboard box, reinforce
it latterly, use some plastic something like that
also some foam in there. A little tip here
actually, you could in fact use an old television box, that’s something a friend of mine did, because he thought it’d
make the baggage handlers take a little bit more care with it if they thought a T.V. was inside of it. I dunno if they did or not, but well it’s worth a go isn’t it? Now the next one comes in from Bugboy. Bugboy wants to know how would I compare latex tubes to tubeless? In Bugboy’s mind the
weight savings are similar yet tubeless has the added
benefit of less flats. Poke some holes in this holes
in this theory, pun intended. Oof, good question, I’m
currently a little bit undecided on tubeless on the road, purely because the tires I like to use don’t actually come in a tubeless
variety, to me as of yet. Something I find a little bit irritating about a tubeless tire is that fact that if you were to puncture
and your tire didn’t seal and you then refitted it with
an inner tube inside of it and you already used your CO2 cartridge to try and reseal the tire and try and get it to reseat onto the rim, then generally you need to use CO2 again to actually pop the tire into place and if you’ve already
used up that CO2 canister and you don’t have another
spare one with you, well you could well have a
bobbing tire on your ride home. Yeah I know it’s very
unlikely or quite unlikely, but I still can’t help but get that weird
scenario out of my mind. Where as a latex tube, yeah,
they do require inflating each time you ride because the tube is actually porous so it leaks air but I don’t see that as
so much of a problem. However, well ultimately
the choice is yours. They both have low rolling resistance, so obviously you are saving
a little bit of weight compared to standard setup but yeah, the choice really
depends on whether or not the tire you want is available in tubeless or not in my opinion. Next up is Kevin and Kevin
asks, “Hi Jon, you’re a legend.” Well actually he’s not
asking, he’s just telling. Uh, Kevin’s built a bike with used parts. The wheels that they got are
a pair of Bontrager TLRs. When they’re freewheeling it’s
really quiet, is that normal? Right then Kevin, well
without actually looking at the wheel itself, it’s
very hard to diagnose that problem, but it could
well be that the ratchets within the freehub body and the hub shell are designed in such a way
that it’s gonna give you silent or a very quiet freewheeling. Now recently, there is
quite a trend it seems for people to have this
desire for loud freehubs, so everyone in villages wide
can hear you approaching. Personally I don’t like that, I like to have a nice quiet freehub and I’m pretty sure that
those TLRs from Bontrager are actually designed in such a way that it does have a nice silent one. Could well be though
that the freehub ratchets are not possibly engaging correctly and that’s what’s giving
it that quiet sound but unless your freehub’s skipping then it’s more than likely the design, the design to be just
a little bit quieter. Now we’ve got Tae Rim next and Tae Rim has a one by
11 on a classic litespeed, I do like a classic litespeed by the way. Now it was designed obviously
for a two by set up, but Tae Rim has put a
narrow wide chain ring on the outer side of the chain sets, remember these are two by chain set, so there’s two positions, so effectively he’s put
a narrow wide chain ring where the big chain ring would be. But if they move the
ring to the inner slot, so the inside of the spider, will the top end gears become inefficient or more prone to wear and tear? The outer slot is absolutely
fine, but the chain drops when spinning backwards
in a 32 tooth sprocket. Right then, don’t worry first
up about that chain coming off if you pedal backwards because
you pedal forwards don’t you? But it’s more than likely coming off there because of the angle it’s running at. So actually mount that wolf
tooth narrow wide chain ring on the inside of the chain set instead, so where your standard
small chain ring would be and I’m pretty sure it
won’t be doing that anymore even when you pedal backwards. As for loss of efficiency
or anything like that, it’s probably between
about one or two percent, so very, very low and also
you’ve got to consider how much time you’re actually
spend in the extremes there so either the 32 or the
11 at the other side. So I wouldn’t worry about that too much and the loss of power
or anything like that, more importantly is that
your gears work all okay. Next we’ve got C S. C S, they pop up from time
to time in the comments, good to see you again. “Jon, did you ever follow up
on your one by conversion? I kept dropping my chain to the outside when I wasn’t using a
narrow wide chain ring on a Dura Ace 7800 setup with
generic 50 tooth 10 speed ring and a few removed chain links.” However C S then puts on a 50
tooth narrow wide chain ring and haven’t dropped it yet, they mounted the one by on the outer ring since where they live is flat and they rarely have to go
to the top of the cassette, so the really low sprockets
there, like the 32 or such like. Now, yeah, another one by, but I never did follow up on that did I? But after several hundred kilometers riding over rough terrain I must say, yeah with that narrow wide chain ring, it never fell off once. I was really, really impressed and I wasn’t using a clutch mech remember, ’cause that was a Campagnolo
Chorus setup I had, so yeah, I absolutely loved
it and it’s good to see that you’re having the
same success as I’m having. Next up is Chintan and Chintan
says, “Hi Jon, love the show. I’ve had my inner tube
in the front tire for more than a year without a puncture, so it was opened only a couple of times.” They’ve changed the tires now and noticed some powder
like substance inside of it. Their question is, does the
inner tube also have a lifespan and should they changed or
is okay to keep them running if they don’t have a puncture? Right, well, I guess an inner
tube will have a lifespan. Exactly what though I don’t know because rubber does tend to perish. If you haven’t got a puncture though I wouldn’t go changing it unless it’s showing
obvious signs of perishing, so splits or such like, I
mean if you’ve got a split in an inner tube you are
gonna have to replace it. But that powder, I’ve
noticed that actually on quite a lot of tires and tubes that have been fitted onto
wheels for a long time, so something over five
years, you find a bike like the one I did that one on the street. When I took the tire off of
that rim it absolutely stank and also it was quite
powdery inside of there. That could well be the
side walls of the tire gradually sort of crumbling
apart if you like, and going inside to give
that powdery effect. However it could well
also be talcum powder which is something I
always recommend to apply to an inner tube as well as the inside of a tire before fitting. But yeah, as for a lifespan,
I really don’t know. Someone out there will
know I’m sure though. And the penultimate one this week comes in from Max Schubiger who says, “Hi Jon I worked on my carbon road bike and it took me several days as I could only work on
it during the evenings. During those four days”,
that he was working on it, “I left the frame clamped
in the repair stand. Not a problem right? Cheers!” Right then Max, provided
you didn’t over tighten an actual frame tube itself,
which I hope you didn’t, hopefully you clamped the seat post, there’s not a problem at all. You could leave it in
there for years I’d imagine and nothing would happen. Just be aware though ’cause you did say you clamped the frame, I’m hoping you mean you
clamped the seat post, if you did clamp the frame, you’re gonna do that with
such little pressure, so don’t go clamping it
really, really tight. I’ll never forget working in a workshop and a rider rushed in, in such haste because his gears weren’t working and he put his bike into the stand and he just clamped it on the seat tube. He clamped it so hard
he crushed the seat tube and effectively destroyed the whole frame. The language that was used that afternoon was very, very foul, so yeah, go back to your original
point, absolutely fine providing you haven’t
been using excess force. And the final one this week
comes in from Bev Sorsby who says they’re looking at getting a new TT bike for next year but was wondering about the size. The road bikes they use are a size smaller than what the sizing
charts they should use because they like them smaller with a longer stem and
loads of seat post out. They feel they handle better. Bev wants to know, should
they get the same size as their road bikes or is
going for the next size down going to get them a better aero position. They don’t mind being hunched
in as they used to ride 26 inch front wheel low
pros back in the day. Oh, I remember those. Now there isn’t one answer for all here because all bikes tend to
have different geometries and such like and I really
wouldn’t like to say, yes go ahead and do
that because what works for one manufacturer may
not work for another. Best bit of advice here is
actually to pop into a local shop and check out the bike there
that is in question if you can. Or maybe speak to someone who
actually owns one those bikes and ask if you can have
a go on it and see. Remember though too here
what’s crucial to remember is that the super aerodynamic position isn’t necessarily faster
because you also have to be able to ride in that position for the length of the race or event
that you’re taking part in. Sometimes just relaxing the
angle that you’re riding in may be a little bit less aerodynamic but if you can push out more Watts and still go almost as
fast or just as fast, that’s definitely worth considering rather than risking getting an injury. Sorry I can’t be more specific than that but well, that is the way
the cookie crumbles I guess. Right I do hope that
I’ve been able to help answer and solve your
bike related problem, there’s some tough ones
in there this week. Remember if you’ve got help for anyone, let them know down there and also if you’ve got yourself
a bike related problem, let me know down there
because I want to solve it, so you can go out riding again. Remember as well to like and share this video with your friends. Share it with someone who’s
got one of those problems. A problems shared is a problem
cared or something like that. Anyway also remember to
check out the GCN shop at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com we have a whole heap of
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