– Few products have changed my riding in the way that Dropper Posts have. There seems to be a small
minority not yet onboard with adjustable seat height serenity, but I do think that it’s
just a matter of time. Now, how best do we live
with our sliding sidekicks? This is Dropper Post hacks. (loud crashing) (chill hip hop music) A clean interface can help
us keep our seat posts where we want them without having to torque this bolt excessively. This was perhaps more of an issue with your first generation droppers, which would bind up if you
torqued that bolt like crazy. But why make life harder
than it needs to be? A nice clean interface using
some kind of grip compound can really, really work wonders. So, over time, gunk and grease can really dirty this area inside the shaft there. So, I would use some kind of
brake or isopropyl cleaner, something that’s not gonna leave a damp or watery residue that
could potentially damage, especially an alloy frame. The second thing is
your retaining compound. So, something like a carbon paste, which is really good
to minimise the torque you have to do at the C-clamp, or just anti-seize paste on an alloy frame can be very useful indeed. And don’t forget to torque check that to the specified amount on the C-clamp. (chill hip hop music) A very thin suspension fluid
can be your best option when you wanna lube up the seal, which sits just beneath the collar there. Now, even the thinnest
of suspension greases can actually add drag to the system. Normally, a barring thins out the grease with the introduction of
heat when it gets moving. But obviously, we’re not creating that same heat within our seat post. So, you really need to
be wary of over greasing, and adding drag to the system, which our comparatively weak air spring won’t be able to overcome. If you want to just do a
quick bit of maintenance, you can use a bit of silicone spray, which will help lift it
from underneath the seal. But if you rely on this
too often, you will, overtime, potentially be
flushing any lubrication the came in there from the last service or manufacturing. So, just watch out for that. So, to do this is really simple. We’re just gonna undo this collar and slide it to the top. We’re gonna push our post down, and upon it’s return, it will help bring up
this little bush here. So, that’s really simple. You either wanna use that
very thin grease sparingly or just light suspension fluid. (chill hip hop music) Now, one hack, which is
a bit of a crowd divider, is actually bolting a second seat post onto the back of your saddle, which can be used to aid
you if you are bikepacking, without risking a saddle bag rubbing your what is probably quiet
an expensive seat post or causing any damage. Now, aesthetically it leaves
a little to be desired, especially if unaccompanied
by the mandatory hipster handle bar moustache
and rustic hip flask. Now, Topeak do have this little gadget, which, to be honest, makes
a far better fist of it. But it is really worth considering what will happen when
you drop that seat post, or if the real wheel goes into its travel. So, as good as they are, just be sure to do your homework first. (chill hip hop music) Now, there is a bit of
work stand etiquette when we’re putting our
bikes in a work stand. The first thing you
want to do is make sure the surface is nice and clean. You don’t want to be
putting into something which is essentially a sandpaper vice. There is a conversation going around about whether you want the front wheel to be hanging or propped up, so it can take some of the mass off the internals of the dropper post. I think this isn’t something
I give too much credence, as long as that post is at full extension. And I wouldn’t advise
storing your bike like that. But certainly, just to work on it, I don’t think it’s too much of a problem. Some posts, however, are more susceptible to
going saggy than others. So, better safe than sorry if
you have one of those posts. (chill hip hop music) Sometimes, whilst on a ride, you might get a little
bit muddier than intended, and keeping grip on your controls
can be an issue in itself. Now, some people like to use
kind of sandpaper grip tape. Although personally, this does give me the heebie-jeebies. I would much rather use something like the male side of Velcro, or you could, if you were so inclined, get some Rubber Mastic Tape, and just cut grooves in
that in a cross section, and that could actually provide a surprising amount of traction on what would otherwise be
a very slippery interface. (chill hip hop music) Some people use an old inner
tube to keep out the elements. Just be careful that you
don’t end up trapping them in. Now, I’m gonna be honest with you, this isn’t my bag, not one bit, functionally, aesthetically,
the whole shebang, but if it helps you out, then why not. I would suggest, maybe, putting a mud guard on the rear to stop the dirt getting there in the first place. But I wouldn’t worry about it too much. Just be really careful
that in your efforts to seal the bad stuff out, you don’t end up locking it in. Just think of Matt Damon’s character in Martin Scorsese’s “The Departed”, and you’ll completely
understand what I mean. (chill hip hop music) If you like pina coladas
and dancing in the rain, if you like making love… Sorry, I’m getting carried away. But what I’m trying to say is if you like doing things
a little bit differently, then perhaps, this is the option for you. A firm fan favourite, so much so. You’ve probably seen seen
some more refined versions floating about on ProsBikes. But it’s basically a
reconstituted two by shifter from an old Sram grip shift. Now, depending how much you want to spend, you can get one like this, which was about 20 quid,
or you could go right up, because they still make that XO level, which would be very tidy, indeed. And all it does is it just actuates the bottom of your seat post via cable tension. So, I think it’s great. It looks super tidy, and it’s also quiet ergonomic. (chill hip hop music) When you’re on a long ride and something goes wrong, and your seat post
starts to somewhat embody the ghost of the oki koki. When you put your weight
on it, it goes down. When you stand up, seat
post comes straight back up. Meaning, it’s no good for
either climbing or descending. Well, this is where one of these comes in, living your backpack to save the day. What is does is it means you can clamp your seat
post at full extension. Now, this might not be
great for descending, but it certainly means you can pedal home with reasonable amount of efficiency. (chill hip hop music) There now seems to be a whole host of companies that market
after-market levers without necessarily making
their own seat posts. You’ll even see some bikes that, perhaps have suspensional lockout systems, such as the Canyon Strive, that come with their
own proprietary levers. Now, this goes both ways. So, for instance, as long as the cable orientation
is in the right direction, you could run a Crankbrothers seat post with a Fox lever or vise versa to suit your exact preferences. (chill hip hop music) Using a toe strap to hold
your rear wheel in place against a table leg or a work stand makes working on the seat post, especially the cable
rooting oh so much easier. Now, it doesn’t have to be
one of these premium options that was lent to me by Jon Cannings. Provide that any sort of strap, and it’s earthquake proof, works a dream, and could make what is
quiet a finickity job , just that little bit easier. (chill hip hop music) A very easy and fool-proof way to set you cable length is actually by turning your handle bars to 90 degrees, and running your cable
directly from the lever, straight down, and so just enough enough emerges at the top of the seat tube. This means by turning the handlebar to create some slack, you could always get your seat post out of the frame without having
to then remove the lever. So, that the handlebar
is turned 90 degrees, this line is certainly very tight, but it does mean that we have
just enough room to be able to work on the bottom of the seat post without having to
disconnect the lever here. (chill hip hop music) Surgical tubing is best, but a gear fowl with the end snipped off can also work really effectively. Now, Park Tool do make
this really nice kit, but perhaps, it’s slightly out of reach for the home mechanic. So, you can use some surgical hose to really push through new cables. So, I really want to put the emphasise, you use it to push the new cable in, using the old cable as a guide. But don’t just go pulling the old cable, because that isn’t that tight of a fit. So, slowly, slowly, catch your monkey, or at least my friend from Hartlepool so expertly informs me. (chill hip hop music) And now this is unapologetically and undoubtedly one of your bodgey ones. What it is is a gear throw that is used to hold a gear inner, which can sit at the bottom
of your actuator there. Sometimes, when you lose this piece, it’s an absolute nightmare. Perhaps you want to go riding, and you don’t want to wait
a few days on ordering one. Now, you can make them
out of the metal throws you’d get on break lines. And it is a far neater job. I’ve done it before
with drilling them out, but I thought, “Henry, not
everyone has access to a drill,” “or a whole work ship of tools.” So, how simply can you make this one? So, I used a plastic gear throw, a Phillips screwdriver
and a pick, and overtime, that just sorts in there, and that can sit just to the
bottom of the seat post there. Maybe you need to cut some
length off either side. But yeah, really bodgey,
but actually does work. So, hopefully I’ve helped inform you on some ways to look after
our Dropper Seat Posts. Now, I’m sure there’s plenty I’ve missed. So, please let us know in the comments. And if you want to stay with GMBN Tech, why don’t you check
out the really in-depth look at the new Shimano
XT Groupset with Doddy, which is absolutely fantastic, and is a really good watch. Alternatively, if you want something, well, perhaps not so high-brow, why don’t you check out
the maintenance video I did on keeping a bike
in flat or apartment?